top of page

How To Sharpen Robot Lawnmower Blades with 3D Printed Sharpening Tool and Diamond Stones - For Mammotion Luba, Yuka and other robotic lawn mowers

  • Mar 31
  • 6 min read

Updated: Jun 11

The blades that come on robotic lawnmowers like the Mammotion LUBA and YUKA are different from the large blades on a traditional gas mower. Robot lawnmowers use small, thin razor-style blades and rely on their sharpness for cutting because the decks have much less power than a gas mower. A traditional-style mower needs a sharp blade, too, but its sheer power can cut and mulch grass even when the blade is a little dull. A robot lawnmower needs a razor-sharp blade to keep cutting well; otherwise, it will start tearing up the grass or not cut at all.


Replacement blades are affordable, but throwing away blades unnecessarily is wasteful if they can be resharpened several times before disposal. I've been using the original blades for 4 years in the Mammotion LUBA by simply taking a few minutes to resharpen them every few months of use.


I have spare sets that are already sharpened and swap them with the dull sets and then resharpen them on the workbench while the mower continues to cut grass.


To make sharpening easy, I designed a 3D printable holder that holds 2 blades. Both blades are sharpened simultaneously.



BLADE HOLDERS FOR SHARPENING AND HONING


WHERE TO DOWNLOAD 3D PRINT FILES


I prefer a dual bevel sharpening process (explained in further detail below), so I designed 2 holders:

  1. 12 degrees is the original angle of the Mammotion blades. This 12 degree holder is used for Step 1 of the sharpening process.

    • Sharpen the blades on a 600 grit diamond stone.

    Gray 3D plastic blade holder labeled LUBA BLADE 12° on a white background, with a knurled top knob.


  2. 20 degrees is the honing angle. This 20 degree holder makes a very small bevel on the edge that is stronger and more durable than the 12 degree angle. It also makes the sharpening process faster, because there's less material to remove at 20 degrees vs 12 degrees.

    • Hone the blades on a 1200+ grit diamond stone.

    Gray 3D render of a LUBA BLADE 20° rotary blade with a knurled knob, on a white background with blue base pieces.
    • This is what the blade edge should look like after this step. The 20-degree micro bevel can be seen as the bright, shiny part at the edge.

Close-up of a finger holding a rusty metal razor blade with two round holes against a plain background.

The underside of the blade holder with the blades installed:

Knife sharpener and white blade guide on a wooden workbench, with a screwdriver and tool parts nearby.


Blades bening sharpened on a portable diamond sharpener. It's not as wide as the blades, but it still works.

White 3D-printed clamp on a black rail atop a worn wooden workbench, with an orange container blurred in the background.

Blades being sharpened on a large diamond plate. This works a lot better. Wet the plate to allow the particles to clean off better and speed up the sharpening.

Close-up of a sanding block holding a white 3D-printed part with a green knob, labeled 600 Grit, on a work surface.



HOW TO ASSEMBLE THE BLADE HOLDERS


HARDWARE:

You will need the following hardware:

  1. 10-32 x 1.25in Flat Head Screw

  2. 10-32 Nut

  3. 8-32 hardware will also work, but will be loose.



ASSEMBLY:

  • This exploded view shows how the parts come together.

Exploded diagram of a 3D printed lawnmower blade sharpener with blade clamp, spring, knob, nut, and screw labels.


  • How to insert the blades:

Three-step diagram of a UBA blade holder: loosen, insert blades, then tighten thumbwheel; gray tool with blue blades and labels.


SHARPENING STONES

Large, flat diamond sharpening stones are the best to use for sharpening these blades. There are cheap ones that are ok, and expensive ones that are excellent.


I recommend buying at least these 2 grits of stones.

  • 600 grit - for sharpening at 12 degrees

  • 1200 grit - for honing at 20 degrees


CHEAPEST DIAMOND SHARPENING STONES

If this is all you're planning to use the diamond stones for, then buy a cheap set like these. This is a double sided stone with 600 grit on one side and 1200 grit on the other. Don't expect this to last as long as the nicer stones, but it's probably good enough for casual use.


WHERE TO BUY:

Amazon product page for a double-sided diamond sharpening stone, showing 600/1200 grit honeycomb plates and black base.


GOOD DIAMOND SHARPENING STONES

These are good-quality stones for general-purpose use. Made in USA surprisingly.


WHERE TO BUY:

Amazon product image of a red DMT diamond whetstone with clear case and black base, labeled cover, sharpener, mounting hole, feet.
600 grit diamond stone

Amazon product page showing DMT green diamond whetstone with a chisel on top and text for Extra Fine 6-inch sharpening stone.
1200 grit diamond stone

BEST DIAMOND SHARPENING STONES

If you want a good set of diamond stones for sharpening other things like kitchen knives and pocket knives, then I can highly recommend these Ultra Sharp stones, as they are what I use.


WHERE TO BUY:

Three gray UltraSharp diamond sharpening stones stacked on an Amazon product page, labeled 300, 600, and 1200 grit.


LEATHER STROP

A leather strop is used for the finishing step to remove the burr and polish the blade. This is the strop that I use.


WHERE TO BUY:

BeaverCraft leather knife stropping kit with green compound and packaging, shown on an Amazon product page.


SHARPENING STEPS:

NOTE: The stock blades arrive sharpened on 2 edges. This makes them easy to install, because it doesn't matter which direction you install them on the mower deck. However, don't assume that it gives you more cutting edges. My experience is that by the time the cutting edge is full, the other edge is also full due to wear. Therefore I pick the best edge and only sharpen that one edge, because sharpening the other edge is a waste of time.


  1. The sharpening angle on a stock Mammotion blade is 12 degrees. The white holder is set to 12 degrees.

  2. Use a 600 grit diamond stone to resharpen.

  1. Sharpen on one side until enough material has been removed to start forming a fresh edge.

  2. Loosen the holder and flip the blades.

  3. Sharpen on the other side until a sharp edge begins to form.

  4. Make sure that you sharpen evenly on both sides. Usually this is pretty quick, taking less than a minute per side. If the blade is damaged or severely dull it may take more time and material removal.

  5. Once a reasonably sharp, clean edge is created, it's time to start honing on a finer diamond stone, like a 1200 grit.

  6. Honing on 1200 grit stone can be done at the same 12 degrees angle, but will take longer due to the small amount of material removal. A faster method is to use the dual bevel or micro bevel sharpening technique.

  7. Remove the blades and install them in the 20 degree 3D printed holder.

  8. Hone the blades at 20 degrees on the 1200 grit diamond sharpening stone. Be careful to not over do it, as this will go very quick.

  1. Loosen the holder, flip the blades and hone the other side at 20 degrees on 1200 grit.

  2. A small, even edge should be visible at the top of the edge of the blade, as shown here.

  3. Stop when it looks like the image below.


Close-up of a fingertip touching a rusty metal blade with circular holes, showing wear and corrosion.

  1. Use a leather strop with polishing compound, drag the blade backwards several times on both sides on it at about 20 degree angle to remove the burr and clean and polish the edge.

  2. With practice, this process only takes a few minutes and blades aren't wasted.




WHY USE DUAL BEVEL FOR SHARPENING BLADES?


Dual bevel, micro bevel, dual angle, etc blade sharpening is a sharpening technique that makes it faster to sharpen a blade, and makes a stronger, more durable edge.


In this example (for kitchen knives), we begin by coarse sharpening at 15 degrees to create an edge. This sharpening only needs to be taken up to 600 grit. Then the blue lines are honed at 22 degrees using 1000+ grit. This creates a very small edge at a larger angle that is more durable than the narrower angle edge was. Since it is very small, it doesn't compromise the ease of cutting, because the main wedge effect is still at 15 degrees. Each consecutive honing removes material to the next set of blue lines. Eventually you're left with a large surface area 22 degree angle, which does make cutting less efficient due to the larger wedge angle and takes more time to remove material with the hone.


Technical diagram of blue and black rays diverging from a left point, labeled 22° and 15° on a gray background.

At that point it is time to resharpen to 15 degrees.


Diagram of a blue 15° angle between two rays across a gray wedge, with a dashed vertical line and no people

Then repeat the 22 degree honing steps again.

Geometric diagram of a blue wedge and gray rays, labeled 22°, showing angle construction on a white background.

After honing, always use a strop to remove burr and clean and polish the edge. The strop should be used with an angle equal to or slightly less than the honing angle.



Affiliate Disclaimer


The products shown here were purchased by me with the intent to use them. I did not receive any free items, and I am not being paid or compensated for this review. The video, description, and comments may contain affiliate links. If you click on a link, I may receive a commission. Money earned helps to support my channel and bring you more informative videos about engineering, crafting, and DIY

Comments


Categories
Recent Posts
Search By Tags
Follow Us
  • Facebook Basic Square
  • Twitter Basic Square
  • Google+ Basic Square

© 2024 by Engineerable.

  • Grey Facebook Icon
  • Grey Twitter Icon
  • Grey YouTube Icon
  • Grey Pinterest Icon
  • Grey Instagram Icon
bottom of page