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2002-2006 Mercedes Sprinter Van Maintenance and Repair - T1N Dodge, Freightliner



TURBO RESONATOR REPLACEMENT

The stock turbo resonator finally split open several years ago enough to start leaking oil. I replaced it with an aftermarket Dorman brand resonator that was recommended as a stronger alternative. What I missed though is that the o-ring that comes with the Dorman part is crap and will fail and leak within a few years, and that is exactly what happened. The Mercedes brand o-ring is said to be superior.


  • O-ring discussion

  • Good o-ring - Mercedes P/N 013 997 84 45

  • Someone measured the stock Mercedes o-ring 1.7" ID, 2.1" OD and 0.2" Width

  • Those measurements coincide with a #327 o-ring. Why not use a quad seal (X) o-ring? They offer superior sealing in many ways to a standard o ring.

  • The #327 quad seal VITON o-ring from Mcmaster was a perfect fit. It was tight going in, so put some engine oil on the o-ring before inserting. Viton is a good choice for this application, better than cheaper Buna-N. Viton has a temp resistance of 400F and resistant to a wide range of chemicals, including oils, fuels, ozone. Buna-N should still work ok for this application as it has good chemical and oil resistance, and 250F heat resistance. Viton is more expensive, but not an issue since this is only one o-ring.

  • Chemical-Resistant Viton® Fluoroelastomer O-Ring, X-Profile, 3/16 Fractional Width, Dash Number 327






AUXILIARY ELECTRIC COOLANT PUMP

This pump runs all the time, and the brushes wear out within about 2 years. A brushless motor version would last longer.




Since the connector is different, and I cannot find a mating connector for the old pump, I may hack the connector part off the old pump, and solder that to the wire leads that come with the new connector.



FUEL LEAKING FROM HOSES AT HIGH-PRESSURE FUEL PUMP


There are 2 very short hoses attached to the high-pressure fuel pump. Mine were leaking diesel fuel onto the motor, quite a bit at some point. Squeezing the stock crimped on hose clamps temporarily stopped the leak, but I knew that these hoses would need to be replaced.

SKU

Description

Qty

Unit Price

Amount

1

$11.75

$11.75

1

$11.75

$11.75

13-15mm fuel injection style hose clamps are needed to replace the crimped-on hose clamps that aren't reusable.


WHERE TO BUY




TRANSMISSION SERVICE - Every 60k miles


The transmission will last longer if the fluid and filters are changed every 40-60k miles or so. The original T1N MB NAG1 transmission service interval was once at 80,000 miles and done. Of course that proved to be very optimistic.


I buy the kits from EuroParts-SD.com either the FUCHS OEM fluid or the PENTOSIN fluid (which is supposedly newer tech and better...)


The kits come with the replacement gasket and filter.





Something else that needs to be serviced occasionally is the transmission electrical connector. It is prone to leaking, although the newer revisions are improved over the older leaky ones.





SERPENTINE BELT IDLER PULLEYS - Every 100k miles


The serpentine belt idler pulleys (bearings) will eventually wear out. For me that seems to be about 100k miles (which is also the recommended replacement interval). They start to make a racket when it's cold in winter. If the tensioner idler pulley needs to be replaced before 100k miles, the pulley can be replaced without replacing the whole tensioner. However, if the tensioner has 100k miles on it, it should also be replaced. If the tensioner starts to fail, it can result in engine overheating, broken belt and other problems.


The OEM setup uses one grooved and one smooth pulley. Europarts-SD recommends using 2 grooved pulleys.

Buy 2 of these pulleys.

Part Number: 000 202 09 19


This is the serpentine belt tensioner pulley. Buy 1 of these. This pulley does not come with a dust cover, nor do the orignal dust covers work. The packaging says that a dust cover is not needed, because the bearings are sealed and greased. In my experience, a dust cover will increase the lifespan of a "sealed" bearing.


Left pulley is original, center pulley is GATES brand "sealed" replacement without the dust cover

Part Number: 38018 TENSIONER PULLEY



All the idler pulleys use a T50 torx bolt. The small clearance between this bolt and the fan blades makes them difficult to access with a regular socket wrench and T50 torx socket. Using a low profile 1/4in bit wrench with a T50 torx 1/4in bit made it easy to remove and install these bolts. I used this Gearwrench 1/4 bit ratchet driver set. The 12 in long ratchet made it easy to access the bolts and loosen/tighten them.


These are the T50 torx bits I used with the 1/4in bit ratchet set:

Mayhew Tools 18802-5 USA Torx Insert Bit, T50 x 1", 5-Pack

Or:

Insert 1" Torx 50 (T50) / Star Power Impact Bit 10 pack 1/4 Hex


SERPENTINE BELT TENSIONER - Every 100k miles

If the tensioner has 100k miles on it, it should also be replaced. If the tensioner starts to fail, it can result in engine overheating, broken belt and other problems.


REPLACE SERPENTINE BELT - Inspect Every Oil Change, Replace at 50-80k miles

The last serpentine belt I used was a Continental Elite (Rebranded Goodyear Gatorback), but this belt only last 30-40k miles before it started splitting along the grooves. It's as if the pulleys were slicing into the part of the belt above the grooves. When I looked at replacing it, they don't appear to manufacture the "Gatorback" belts anymore. The same Continental part number brought up a plain belt of the same size.


There's a lot of discussion about the correct length belt. The factory length is 2257mm or 2260mm (depending on who you all 😂). 2257mm corresponds to 88.7in which is a Continental 4060887. I have previously used this length, and it works well. There's no equivalent to the 2260mm. The next inch size up is Continental 4060889, which is 2258mm. This one is also a perfect fit. I used this length on the most recent belt replacement.


WHERE TO BUY:



REPLACE ENGINE AIR FILTER


I've been using the HENGST engine air filters, and all has worked well so far.

Part Number: 003 094 83 04-HENGST




REPLACE CABIN AIR FILTER


I use the HENGST cabin air filter. So far so good.

Part Number: 901 830 04 18-HENGST



OIL LEAKING FROM UNDER ENGINE COVER


FUSES ATTACHED TO BATTERY

There's a small fuse box attached to the battery with several high current fuses. The type of fuse used here is a MIDI fuse. The bolt hole distance is 30mm. I haven't had any of these fuses blow, but it's a good idea to have some on hand in case I do something stupid, and there's one empty slot that I intend to use for the starter battery ch

WHERE TO BUY


REPLACEMENT AIR VENT GRILL


DRIVE SHAFT BOOT REPLACEMENT

The boot's Dodge/Mopar part number is 05133897AA , its MB number is A 901 411 00 97


Good info on this post (#9) about how to replace the drive shaft boot https://sprinter-source.com/forums/index.php?threads/59458/


It's hard to find the driveshaft boot in stock somewhere.


DRIVESHAFT SUPPORT ASSEMBLY



Kit is here:


ABS ESP BRAKE PRESSURE SENSOR


All the lights related to the braking system and ABS came on in the dash. Using the scan tool, it came up with code:


C1501 ESP brake pressure sensor BAS diaphragm travel sensor


This error indicates that something is wrong with the ABS ESP brake pressure sensor



Cabin Filter Insulation Kit

Foam insulation cover for blower motor and cabin filter housing directly under windshield/cowl in engine compartment. Often falls apart with age.




Arm Rest Repair

The arm rest is worn and foam is showing.

It was recommended to use this cover as a starting point, and stretch/glue it in place.


Where to buy:



 

TROUBLESHOOTING

These are some of the issues I've had that I was able to repair.


Engine stalling when coming to a stop

Engine would cut off when warmed up and coming to a stop like at a light or stop sign. Letting the engine sit off for a few minutes before trying to restart would get it working. The problem continued to worsen to the point where it would take much longer to start again, and wouldn't start at all from cold.

The solution was to replace the crankshaft sensor in the engine. This permanently solved the problem.


Transmission won't shift above 2nd or 3rd gear.

The solution to this was to replace the solenoid valve PCB inside the transmission. The sensors had metal built up on the surface. Cleaning it may have worked, but the replacement part was not too expensive.


Coolant leaking from the driver's side of the engine.

This was a bad oil cooler block. Replacing it and the gasket fixed the problem.


Air Conditioner works intermittently

If the air conditioner works intermittently, and progressively gets worse to the point that it no longer works at all, the likely cause is bad solder joints on the relay on the AC control board. Watch this video to see how to fix that.


The old solder must be removed (using a solder sucker worked well). The first time I attempted this repair, I simply remelted the original solder, but this only worked for a short while. The second time I removed the old solder and used new solder. This appears to be a permanent repair.




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