There are of course very expensive instruments available for measure the high g forces for impact testing. Most inexpensive accelerometers or inertial measurement units only measure up to 16G of acceleration. We had an application that required measuring 150G during a shock test. We wanted something simple, and preferably wireless (bluetooth). This article describes a simple method of how to calculate the G-force of a drop impact. The impact velocity is calculated from acceleration of gravity. These are some of the devices I found that fit the application needs and were still relatively low cost. VERNIER Go Direct® Acceleration Sensor Range: Low acceleration: ±157 m/s2 (±16 g) High acceleration: ±1,960 m/s2 (±200 g) YOST LABS 3-Space™ Bluetooth Ultra-High G TSS-BTS-H3 (+/- 400G Accelerometer, Screwdown Sensor Unit) MSR175 Transportation Data Logger - Records Shock and Temperature Records in Range of ±15g/±200g and -20°C to 65°C Temperature Range WHICH ONE DID I CHOOSE?

I was thoroughly impressed by the build quality and print quality of the Elegoo Neptune 3 FDM 3D Printer. Winner of the Best Budget Printer of 2023 is well deserved. However it needed a lot of tightening of the belts and axis linear rail rollers during the initial assembly, which was not covered in the assembly instructions, would have been missed by a beginner with less experience and resulted in horrible print quality. So, the tightness of all belts and linear rail rollers needs to be checked before running the printer. WHERE TO BUY PRINTER: ELEGOO Neptune 3 Pro 3D Printer ELEGOO Neptune 4 Pro 3d Printer WHERE TO BUY ENCLOSURE: COMGROW 3D Printer Enclosure Watch my COMGROW 3D Printer Enclosure Review WHERE TO BUY FILAMENT: DURAMIC 3D PLA Plus Filament 1.75mm DURAMIC 3D TPU Filament 1.75mm Polymaker ASA Filament 1.75mm Black, 1kg ASA 3D Printer Filament, Heat & Weather Resistant Assembly tips To make it easier to attach the gantry, set the printer on its side and mate the gantry to it and loosely tighten the screws. Then set it upright and lower the Z axis such that the print head is all the way down to the build plate. Set the printer at the edge of a table such that you can access the gantry assembly screw and tighten it down. Do the same for the other side. Check the tightness of all the belts. If the X or Y-axis belts are loose, tighten them until there's no more slack. PROS Assembly is straightforward and easy. Includes 2 extra nozzles and a Teflon hot end feed tube. Prints great out of the box (after tuning the loose axis) Prints TPU very well Dual-drive extruder gears grab the filament very well. Don't have to worry about slippage. It feeds the flexible TPU filament well too. CONS X Axis belt was very loose (no mention in the manual to tighten that. X Axis carriage was loose and wobbly. Needed to tighten it using the eccentric nuts. Y Axis table was very loose. Needed to tighten it using the eccentric nuts. No enclosure. Adding an enclosure will improve the print quality. The included micro-SD card is poor quality and slow. It causes the print to pause at the end of each layer, which causes extra material to accumulate at that spot. Get a new, quality micro SD card. The Micro SD card slot is small and annoying to use to transfer files. The lead-in is poor and too easy to shove the card into the gap between the micro sd card slot and the housing. Also, have to put the card in upside down which is counterintuitive. The user interface of the control could be improved. PRINTING For such an inexpensive 3D printer, I was very impressed by the print quality. ASA PRINTING ASA is a UV stable ABS designed for use outdoors. The Neptune 3 Pro did an excellent job printing this material. Small parts stuck well to the build plate and didn't warp. I haven't tried, but I expect that large parts will still warp on the lower layers. TPU PRINTING TPU is normally a tough material to print. In the past I would have never even attempted to print TPU using 1.75mm filament. I only used 3mm TPU filament because it is stiffer and feeds better. 1.75mm filament usually leads to under extruding and poor print quality. I was pleasantly surprised by the TPU print quality from the Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro. It printed as good or better than my 3mm filament printers. You still need to print very slow ~20mm/s. TO BE CONTINUED...

Drift trikes are either pedal powered or motorized (electric or gas). I have never seen a hybrid drift trike. I enjoy pedaling a drift trike for the exercise, but would like to kick in some electric power to get longer flat land drifts, and get a boost to help up the hills. Pedal power limits the duration of a drift on flat land, because there's a limit to the angle at which it becomes impossible to pedal. Electric drift trikes don't have pedals, which makes sense because the motor is far more powerful then our legs, and having feet close to a motorized wheel is not very safe. They usually have foot pegs that are attached to the frame, not the fork. Adding a shield to the fork to protect legs from the wheel, and a shield over the spokes to prevent feet from getting caught in the spokes will make it safer. The front or rear wheel needs to be driven by the motor. HOW TO UPGRADE THE REAR TIRES AND DRIFT SLEEVE Before we even get to adding an electric motor to make the hybrid RAZOR DXT Drift Trike, it will be essential to upgrade the rear wheels, because the stock rear wheels are rubbish. Here's a post on how to do the rear wheel upgrades. FRONT WHEEL MOTORIZED These are some ways that front motor can be driven: Friction drive the wheel by rubbing a motorized tire on the front wheel. This is the easiest way to drive it from a hacked hoverboard. The downside is that it can't coast, so the motor resistance will be felt when pedaling. Use a hub that has a disc brake mount, and mount a sprocket to the disc brake mount and chain drive the wheel. Coaster sprocket on the motor shaft. Use a sprocket that clamps onto the spokes, and chain drive it from a coaster sprocket on the motor. Very common way to install cheap motorized bike kits. Use a sprocket that clamps onto the hub. This is a nicer way to attach the sprocket vs the spokes. The downside is that the RAZOR DXT drift trike hub measures 1.667 inches in diameter, which is larger than any available sprocket hub adapter. This would require precision machining or a lathe to enlarge, which I can do, but makes it difficult for anyone to mod that doesn't have machine tools. DISC BRAKE MOUNT SPROCKET Ride minded sells wheel and crank sets that have disc brake hubs, but can also use rim brakes. The disc brake rotor mount can be used to mount a sprocket instead of (or in addition to) a brake rotor. SPOKE MOUNT SPROCKET This is the cheapest way to mount a sprocket to the wheel, but not the best. HUB MOUNT SPROCKET There are no hub mount sprocket adapters large enough to fit the 1.667in diameter RAZOR DXT drift trike hub. It's probably because this hub is extra large since it's driven by the cranks. With access to a lathe or milling machine, the center hole could be precisely enlarged to fit the hub. REAR WHEEL MOTORIZED A relatively easy way to add electric motors to the rear is to use hoverboard wheels and add drift sleeves to them. This design concept uses 3D printed adapters and a 3D printed drift sleeve. The drift sleeve is printed solid and easy to replace when worn out. It could also be an off the shelf drift sleeve, like from Razor or Triad, and only the adapter needs to be 3D printed. 3D printing the drift sleeve from PLA is both inexpensive and better for environment than other plastics. Drift sleeves wear out, creating microplastics. PLA is (in theory) biodegradable, so the microplastics bits should break down. The hubs should be printed in PLA+ for strength. The most challenging aspect of this mod is how to attach the hoverboard wheels to the drift trike. Most Hoverboards have a very strong metal frame that can be reused. The spacing between the frames can be extended with a pipe. The original hoverboard electronics can be used by allowing the hoverboard foot platforms to rotate like normal, and adding a handle (similar to a handbrake handle) that connects to the hoverboard foot platform, and links and synchronizes both hoverboard foot platforms. The forward speed is controlled by lowering/pushing forward on the handle, and the reverse speed is controlled by lifting up/pulling back on the handle. Unfortunately the handle control method leaves only one hand for steering, which is

I want to maintain easy access to the table and hand wheels (in reality, we never touch the hand wheels). A hybrid enclosure with hard panels on the back and below table level on the front and side. Add a frame around the top and sides. Heavy duty vinyl (or neoprene coated nylon) curtain wraps around the sides to the front. A solid lexan door for the front. Door is suspended from rails. Commercial Curtain Track https://www.strip-curtains.com/order/track_trolley_hardware.php Tightest corner is 2ft radius. Is it possible to 3D print tighter radius corner to pass behind the control box? Straight track pieces - 6ft for $21 Curved track pieces. 2 ft radius. $59 each These would actually work pretty well on the sides, and with the angled front corners. Nylon Roller with 1/2" or 1" hook - 30 lb capacity $1.95 each or box of 20 for $37.50 Curtain Material This is a heavy duty, fire resistant, reinforced vinyl material: https://www.tarpsnow.com/22-oz-vinyl-laminate-fr-61-x-yd.html Neoprene coated nylon, 40oz (used for roll up way covers): 40oz neoprene covered nylon is sold by the yard at other websites for much less expensive than Mcmaster Neoprene Tarp Fabric 40 OZ - $65 per yard Neoprene Tarp Fabric 40 OZ - $69 per yard McMaster sells 40 oz neoprene-coated nylon (0.040" thick). This could easily be used to cover the front ways using the roller and weight. DOOR TRACK McMaster has strut channel and strut channel trolleys OTHER ENCLOSURE DESIGNS This was a 3rd party commercially available enclosure, but is unfortunately no longer sold, since all new TM-1 mills are sold with an enclosure. The following pictures come from this Machine Station listing.

I'm documenting the process of owning a HAAS TM-1 CNC Milling Machine. What's it like to buy a used HAAS TM-1 CNC milling machine? How to move a HAAS TM-1. How to repair and fix problems that arise during use. How to upgrade the memory or use a DNC transfer device to load larger files. What kind of CAT40 tooling to buy, and where to buy it and find good deals? DISCLAIMER - Any and all of the info shown here is for entertainment purposes only. Do not attempt any modifications or repairs shown on this website or associated videos. Only a qualified technician should work on equipment. HOW TO How To Set Work Offset G54 for X, Y, Z Axis BUYING AND MOVING Purchasing and Moving a Used HAAS TM-1 CNC Milling Machine UPGRADES Memory Upgrade Using DNC File Transfer and Drip-Feed Device Over RS232 Serial Port Floppy To USB Converter Emulator Kit For HAAS CNC and other CNC machines Adding a Tool Changer Replacement Battery Upgrade For Memory Safety Switch Holder (keeps the button pressed) Way and Ball Screw Covers for Y and Z axis Y Axis Home Switch Cover How To Increase HAAS TM-1 Spindle Speed from 4000 RPM To 6000 RPM How To Increase HAAS TM-1 Rapid Speed from 200 IPM To 400 IPM How To Remove The Red Handles For Improved Axis Acceleration and Motion Full Enclosure for Flood Coolant and Mist Containment CAT40/10 Carousel Segmented Tool Disk Remote Jog Handle RJH Installation REGULAR MAINTENANCE How To Lubricate Tool Release Piston Lubricating the Linear Ways REPAIRS Service Manual Y-Axis Ball Screw Cover Replacement Fix Tool Release Issues Replace Motor Mount Vibration Isolation Bushings What's Inside A Keyless Drill Chuck? (How To Take Apart) TOOLING 3/8in CAT40 Integral Drill Chuck Cheap but Good 1/2in CAT40 Integral Drill Chuck Cheap but Good 5/8in CAT40 Integral Drill Chuck Cheap but Good 3/4in CAT40 Integral Drill Chuck Pull Studs for CAT40 Tool Holders CAT40 Tool Tags Tool Height Presetter Purchasing and Moving a Used HAAS TM-1 CNC Milling Machine Buying the used 2005 HAAS TM-1 CNC milling machine was easy. Moving it to our shop was a whole different story. Even though this machine is small enough to be moved around on a standard pallet jack, or a powered pallet jack, the only shippers who know how to deal with it are riggers, and they charge $$$$$. Read more about our adventures buying, moving, and setting up the machine... UPGRADES HAAS TM-1 Milling Machine Memory Upgrade Using DNC File Transfer and Drip Feed Device Over RS232 Serial Port The stock memory in a HAAS CNC machine pre-2007 or so is only 1MB (however there is 16MB onboard, but it is locked). You can pay $$$$ to unlock the 16MB. The only way to load files is to use the floppy drive, or over RS232 serial. The floppy drive has a limited capacity and the file still needs to be copied over to the machine to run, taking up precious memory space. I purchased the Micro DNC 2, because it allows you to upload files (no size limit) from a USB key to the HAAS CNC through RS232. If the file is too large to upload in memory, it can drip-feed the file over RS232. So far it has worked great. Here are some videos about using it: The MICRO DNC 2 has been working great so far, but suddenly it was saying that there's "No System Disk", which means that it was no longer recognizing the internal micro SD card. Watch how I fixed that issue: Floppy To USB Converter Emulator Kit For HAAS CNC and other CNC machines Older HAAS and other brand CNC machines have floppy drives for file transfer. This is very inconvenient in the modern world. There are floppy drive emulators that replace the floppy drive with a USB key drive. The 1.44MB capacity limit remains the same, but you can save up to 100 1.44MB spaces on one USB key. ▼ WHERE TO BUY ▶ GoTEK SFR1M44-U100 3.5 Inch 1.44MB USB SSD Floppy Drive Emulator Adding A Tool Changer The HAAS TM-1 came without a tool changer. A HAAS TM-1P does have a tool changer (and these days a full enclosure). HAAS was not willing to sell a tool changer for an open machine. The Mini Mill uses the same 10 tool umbrella style changer as the TM-1, therefore I was able to find some new take off tool changers from Mini Mills that were being converted to EDM machines. This is the process of installing them on our TM-1 CNC milling machine. PART 1. Installing the tool changer support arm. The missing link was the tool changer support arm. HAAS was willing to sell us this part for our machine, and had me check the top of the column to make sure that it had the mounting points. PART 2. Umbrella shuttle motor install. HAAS charges a lot for a replacement umbrella too changer motor. The motor is a stock LEESON motor and less expensive replacements can be found elsewhere. Also, the first thing to check in a failed motor like this one is the brushes. If the brushes are worn out, then it could be a very inexpensive and easy replacement vs replacing the whole motor. PART 3. Repositioning the motor such that there is a drip loop. It was pointed out that having the motor wires face upwards could cause coolant/water to drip down into the motor. Replacement Battery Upgrade for Memory The stock memory batteries are soldered to the circuit boards. When they need replacement, another battery must be plugged into the battery backup port on the board in order to not lose the memory and all settings. Dual Battery upgrade kit from HAAS (uses BR or CR-2/3A style batteries) A 3rd party dual battery upgrade kit that includes the batteries at the same price as the HAAS OEM version. Although, not sure it makes any sense to buy this consider the cost of batteries is cheap. Rechargeable Battery Backup Kit for Haas CNC Machines. Better Than 93-32-4306 /7 It would be very easy to DIY a dual battery kit. Holders for CR-2 batteries are common, but mostly for PCB mount. The HAAS battery holder has some diodes between the batteries to prevent then batteries from discharging into each other. This dual holder is for CR123A, which is a larger battery with more capacity. CR2 has a capacity of 600-900mAH, whereas CR123 has a capacity of 700-1700mAH. Someone posted a 3D printable DIY dual battery upgrade kit for HAAS but didn't post any info about the connector dimensions. Safety Switch Bypass The HAAS TM-1 has a safety switch that by default must be pressed and held for a program to run. Releasing the button is like pressing the feed hold button. This is good for safety and proving out a program, but a pain for running a long program. There is a way to bypass this setting in the parameters, but it must be done every time the machine is restarted. More info about that here. Safety Switch Holder (keeps the button pressed) The HAAS TM-1 has a safety switch that by default must be pressed and held for a program to run. Releasing the button is like pressing the feed hold button. This is good for safety and proving out a program, but a pain to hold for running a long program. Someone has come up with a solution and posted it on Thingiverse. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5499385 This appears to be a functional solution, but it's difficult to remove the switch if it needs to be used manually. I would prefer a design that allows me to quickly remove the switch when needed. Y Axis Home Switch Cover The Y axis switch is not very well protected, particularly from flood coolant. It's a known leak point for coolant. Helton designed a better cover that protects the switch against flood coolant and prevents coolant from leaking out. It fits tightly and slides over the existing feature. Download the 3D printable file here: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/haas-tm-1-cnc-y-axis-switch-cover-engineerable CAT40/10 Carousel Segmented Tool Disk The stock carousel disk is cast aluminum and prone to cracking due to stuck tools or tool holder crashes. Some people make and sell machined aluminum segmented tool disks. These have individually replaceable forks, so if one gets damaged, it can be easily replaced without having to replace the whole tool disk. ▼ WHERE TO BUY ▶ HAAS CAT40/10 Carousel Segmented Tool Disk - Mini Mill (TM1) Remote Jog Handle RJH Installation The TM-1 didn't come with a Remote Jog Handle (RJH), and for a machine like this, it would be really nice. They can be purchased from HAAS, but it's not cheap! I waited until I found a used one. A CNC of this vintage requires an older style RJH that only has the Jog handle, cycle start and feed hold buttons, and the axis and increment selector switches. The RJH that has a screen is for newer machines. Here's where the RJH connects into the Serial Keyboard Interface PCB inside the control panel. REGULAR MAINTENANCE How To Lubricate Tool Release Piston | HAAS TM-1 CNC Milling Machine Spindle Maintenance The tool release piston on the HAAS TM-1 (TM-2) requires occasional lubrication. If you have the spindle cover off for other maintenance, it doesn't hurt to lubricate the piston while you're in there. I use Superlube synthetic grease which is supposed to work well with o-rings. ▼ WHERE TO BUY ▶ Superlube synthetic grease Lubricating The Linear Ways With Grease The old grease had hardened and grease wasn't flowing to all the linear bearings evenly. I had to remove the lines from the splitter and push grease into each bearing individually to remove the old grease and flush the lines. The new grade that HAAS recommends is not supposed to harden. GREASE Per Haas Website: https://www.haascnc.com/service/troubleshooting-and-how-to/reference-documents/lubricant--grease--and-sealant-tables-for-haas-machine-component.html Toolroom Mill Mobil Grease XHP 222 Mobil 1, Synthetic Grease 2 full strokes monthly 99-0677 REPAIRS Service Manuals I couldn't find the 2005 electrical service manual, but here's the 2006 which should be very similar. 2006 Electric Service Manual from HAAS website HAAS Fix Tool Release Issues due to defective Humphrey valve clogging the air lines | TM-1 Mini-Mill This video shows an easy fix to tool release issues for a HAAS TM-1 and similar models like the HAAS Mini Mill. The problem, in this case, is clogged air lines and a defective Humphrey valve SQE2 (Super Quick Exhaust valve). The Humphrey valve has a rubber valve inside that is designed to allow air to only flow in one way and out the exhaust. In this situation, it is being used slightly differently, where low-pressure air enters on one side, high-pressure air enters the exhaust, and then all the air is released out the exhaust. The rubber valve inside that controls the airflow direction has turned into goo, and pushed out the low-pressure airline, clogging some of the low-pressure components. The easy fix is to clean the goo out of the airlines and fittings and replace the Humphrey valve with the same SQE2 valve. However, I've seen people complaining about Humphrey valve failing in 5-10 years. I want something more durable, so instead of buying a Humphrey brand valve, which I know will fail the same way in 5-10 years, I bought this Parker/Legris valve which I hope will last longer https://amzn.to/3fXwRpT Fix HAAS tool release video Part 1: Fix HAAS tool release video Part 2: Replace Motor Mount Vibration Isolation Bushings When we took the spindle cover off the 2005 HAAS TM-1 to repair the tool release piston that was not working well due to clog lines because of the failed Humphrey valve, we also discovered that the rubber motor mount bushings were turning to mush. The rubber has degraded, leaked oil and appears to be breaking down. it no longer holds the motor tightly. I will need to replace these bushings. Isolator bushing measurements ID = 0.695in Small OD = 1 in Large OD = 1.25 in Flange Height = 0.20 in Total Height = 0.5 in ▼ WHERE TO BUY ▶ ISOLATOR, GEARBOX - Pack of 4 Part #: 93-3443 - https://www.haascnc.com/haas-service-parts/spindles/gearbox_drive/mounts/93-3443.html What's Inside A Keyless Drill Chuck? (How To Take Apart) TOOLING HAAS Brand Mill Tool Holding HAAS sells very reasonably priced mill tool holders. Most of them are made in China, but HAAS has tight quality control. Cheap CAT 40 1/4" x 1.75" End Mill Tool Holder This CAT40 1/4" x 1.75" end mill holder is cheap. HAAS tooling website doesn't have end mill holders below 0.5in, they're made in China anywasys, so I'm trying these. 3/8in CAT40 Integral Drill Chuck (Untested) These 3/8in CAT40 integral drill chucks are only $49 when bought in quantities of 4. Cheap but Good 1/2in CAT40 Integral Drill Chuck ▼ WHERE TO BUY ▶ KAKA Industrial 1/2in CAT40 Integral Keyless Drill Chuck (CAT40-APU1/2") Similar CAT40 1/2in Integral Drill Chucks can be purchased on eBay for as little as $37.50 each when bought in 4 packs. Cheap but Good 5/8in CAT40 Integral Drill Chuck ▼ WHERE TO BUY ▶ KAKA Industrial 5/8in CAT40 Integral Keyless Drill Chuck (CAT40-APU5/8") (Tested good) ▶ On eBay for $146 for qty 4 ($36.50 each) (Untested) Cheap but Good 3/4in CAT40 Integral Drill Chuck ▼ WHERE TO BUY ▶ 3/4in CAT40 KEYLESS DRILL CHUCK (CME Tools) Cheap but Good Pull Stud ▼ WHERE TO BUY: ▶ HAAS PULL STUDS CAT40 Tool Tags Keeping track of tool numbers, offsets, and other tool info is important once the tools are off the machine. Tool tags make it easy to keep track of it. There are 2 main types of tool tags available for CAT40 tools, magnetic and clip on. The magnetic ones can be used for any tools that it will stick to. The CAT40 clip-on tool tags only work with CAT40-size tools. The ideal tags I would like are clip-on with magnets, so you can stick the magnets to the machine when the tools are inside. This yellow tool tag is the commonly available one. I improved the design and 3D printed them. Added some magnets to allow them to stick to tools and tool holders and also the CNC enclosure when the tool is inside the CNC machine. ▼ WHERE TO DOWNLOAD 3D FILES FOR PRINTING ▶ BAUEN CAT 40 TOOL TAG - https://cults3d.com/:1829978 ▼ WHERE TO BUY PARTS ▶ 5x3mm Magnets - https://amzn.to/3uYljdR ▶ PLA + Filament - https://amzn.to/3TkqKgF ▶ ELEGOO Neptune 4 Pro 3D Printer - https://amzn.to/3P6ZHD0 Tool Tag Towers are useful for storing multiple tags in their tool changer locations while the tools are being used in the machine. Tool Tag Tower Tool Tag Tower inspired by Pierson Workholding Magnetic Tool Tag Maritool also sells a similar magnetic tool tag. Tool Height Presetter Industrial tool height presenters are complex and very expensive. For the Tormach TTS tooling system, we've been using the granite block with height gauge since the beginning and have had no issues with that method. The same method could be used for CAT40, but the CAT40 tool must be held in place using the taper, not the flange like Tormach TTS tools locate to. This BT30 tool height presetter is basically what I'm looking for, but I can't find a CAT40 model, so I may need to make my own. Tapping Tool Holders Tips for tapping from HAAS Rigid tapping (synchronized tapping) is the holy grail of tapping threads using a CNC machine. If your CNC has rigid tapping enabled (Usually an add-on option for HAAS TM-1 milling machine), then it's easy to tap holes using a rigid tap holder. You can also turn on repeat tapping for deeper holes to do them in multiple depth steps. Techniks makes a MicroFLOAT tap holder that is designed to work with rigid tapping and improve tap life. It has a very small amount of float, 0.008″ (.2mm) of compression and 0.040″ (1mm) of tension. The spring is also much stiffer. The idea is that it allows the tap to float just enough so that it "compensates for synchronization errors between the spindle rotation, feed rates, and thread pitch that create destructive forces on your taps during a rigid tapping cycle, to reduce unwanted axial forces on the tap to produce the truest possible threads and extend tap life." Floating CAT40 Tap Holder This is a normal floating tap holder designed to be used with machines that don't have rigid tapping. It's normally frowned upon to use a floating tap holder for rigid tapping, and can even cause issues (if the tap doesn't enter right away, the depth can be off). However, I wonder if the spring force could be increased to the point that it is basically a MicroFLOAT tap holder, and only has a small amount of very firm float. Cheap no brand floating tap holder on eBay

One major issue with the Fogbuster and other similar fogless coolant applicators that use air pressure is that they can have issues with the consistency of the coolant flow rate. If the coolant flow rate could be either measured or controlled, then the application would be much more reliable. The coolant volume that's being applied to the tool/cut only needs to be about 1 drop per 2 seconds (30 drops per minute). 1 drop of water equals 0.05ml. 1ml = 20 drops. So the pump needs to have a flow rate as low as 1.5 ml per minute. This is a very small flow rate, and there are few pumps capable of delivering such low flow rates. Peristaltic Pumps Peristaltic pumps are ideal flow rate metering pumps for relatively low flows. Using a stepper motor to drive the pump allows for fine-tuned control and very low flow rates. The solution being pumped never comes into contact with the mechanical systems of the pump, so it's a low-maintenance system. The downside to peristaltic pumps is that they have a pulsation on the output. This is caused by the stretching and contracting of the tubing. For applications were volume metering is the important factor, the pulsing is not an issue. But for constant, low-flow rate applications like this, the pulsing becomes an issue because it results in periods of time where there's no flow. The solution is to add more rollers to the pump head and decrease the diameter of the tubing such that the pump can be run at a higher rpm. Peristaltic Pumps Peristaltic Pump Tubing 1x3.2mm BPT tubing - https://a.co/d/13lGX7n 0.8x4mm BPT tubing - https://a.co/d/7sRS1RA 1x3mm Silicone tubing - https://a.co/d/7XlfjKW 1x3mm Silicone tubing - https://a.co/d/ag7ZY2X 1x3mm Silicone tubing - https://a.co/d/c9nf3SK Micro Gear Pumps Gear pumps are generally used in high-pressure, low-volumetric flow rate applications, such as hydraulic systems. They are therefore well suited for very low flow rate applications. They do not have pulsation issues. Microgear pumps are generally more expensive than peristaltic pumps, and the pump is exposed to the fluid (which in the case of metal cutting coolant is probably not an issue because it has lubricants and rust preventatives in it, so it's similar to running oil through the pumps). This inexpensive micro gear pump has a flow rate of 0.8ml/revolution. To achieve a 1.5ml per minute flow rate, the pump would need to be turned at about 2 RPM, which is easy to achieve using a stepper motor. The downside is that this pump is designed for a minimum RPM of 1000 RPM, and a volumetric efficiency of 88%. That means that 12% of the liquid will slip past the space around the gear and gear teeth. Since the pump relays on continuous rotation to build pressure, there maybe too much loss at 2 RPM for a consistent flow. WHERE TO BUY 0.8ML/R High Pressure Single Hydraulic Gear Pump Specification Name: Hydraulic Pump-1A-0.8 Sputum volume: 0.8ml/r Preset pressure: 21MPa (3045 psi) Rated speed:1800rpm Maximum speed: 4300 rpm Minimum speed: 1000 rpm Volumetric efficiency:88% Mechanical efficiency: 85% Flange mounting method: SAE standard Input shaft connection form: Flat key Inlet and outlet connection type: Thread Oil inlet: PT3/8” Oil outlet: PT3/8” Product Weight: 0.95KG Product size: 10.1*8.12*6.75cm The gear pump will need to be driven by a stepper motor. Since the force is low, it can be direct drive. A flex coupler will be needed to connect the shafts between the stepper and pump shaft, and an interface part to connect the servo motor housing to the pump housing. This interface part can be 3D printed. DIY Versions No-Tool Low-Cost Fogger (Actually a fog free system) CNC Zone Forum - How I built a fog-less coolant mister

The HAAS TM1 (Mine is 2005, but most years will be similar) has a 15A 220V outlet for the coolant pump. FogBuster and SST LUBE CUBE don't come with a solenoid to control them on and off from the CNC machine. Ideally we can use the coolant pump output. The easiest way to connect it is to buy a 220V (240V) solenoid air valve. Any other voltage will require an adapter to transform the 220V to the voltage of the solenoid air valve (which could be 12, 24, 48, 110-120, or 220-240 Volts. Do not attempt to connect a 120V device to a single leg of the 240V output. It is not designed for that, because there's no neutral connection, and the power is coming from 3 phase and controlled by a digital relay. 220V (240V) solenoid air valve 110V-120V solenoid air valve with transformer 110V-120V solenoid air valve with relay A 220V-240V relay can be used to switch a 110V AC source to control a 110V AC solenoid air valve. 12V Solenoid air Valve with power adapter WHERE TO BUY 110V-120V solenoid air valve

I've been eyeing the Fogbuster system for years for times/equipment where I can't use flood coolant, but I just can't swallow paying several hundred dollars for a water filter housing, some tubing, and a small block of metal. Along comes SST, and finally makes a similar fogless flood coolant system, the SST Lub Cube, that may even have some improvements. ▼ WHERE TO BUY ▶ SST LUBE-Cube Fogless Coolant Sprayer System IS LUBECUBE A COPY OF FOGBUSTER? Yes, but the original Fogbuster patent was filed in 1995 and has since expired, so anyone can make and sell this design. WHICH MACHINES TESTED ON? I purchased the SST Lube Cube Fogless coolant sprayer primarily for use on the HAAS TM-1 CNC milling machine. This is currently an open machine, and until I enclose it, I don't want to use flood coolant, because it will be too messy. It could also be useful in situations where an air blast works better than flood coolant, although the strong air blast needs to be on a separate nozzle, and it may create more mist if it hits the coolant stream. I was planning to also use it on the band saw (no coolant collection pan) and cold saw (with coolant collection), but then I realized that those don't really need the airstream aspect, so using a simple peristaltic pump will be effective for dripping coolant on the blade. WHICH MATERIALS TESTED? The SST Lube Cube has mostly been used on aluminum, 6061 and some gummier varieties that love to clog the end mills. Even the very nice, highly polished YG-1 Alupower end mills can clog when used without coolant on the softer aluminum (like machining aluminum t-slot extrusions). It is essential for machining aluminum without flood coolant, otherwise, the tool will eventually get gummed up with aluminum. It has also been used for peck drilling high carbon steel to keep the hole cool and prevent material hardening. HOW WELL DOES IT WORK? As long as the coolant is flowing at the correct rate it works very well to keep the tool cool and lubricated. Initially, I had some issues where I would set the flow and then the flow would change and decrease. If I wiggled the adjustment knob axially (there's no noticeable play), or the machine vibrated enough the flow would start up again, and then after a while, it would decrease sometimes all the way to no flow. I spoke to Juan the owner of SST (who was very pleasant and helpful) about this issue and he found it strange, and the only thing that he could think of is that there is a blockage in the needle valve caused by some debris or the coolant itself. I decided to back flush it with water to see if I could clear out anything that was causing a clog. That actually seems to have resolved the issue and now the coolant flow appears to remain constant and it doesn't change over time. I don't know if I introduced the debris while assembling it or into the coolant (there is a filter on the coolant input), but whatever was there was causing issues. So now that that is solved it works really well. I have never used a fogbuster system but I would expect that this system is on par. The adjustment knob is much larger which I've heard makes it easier to fine tune the flow. I usually only turn the adjustment knob about 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn. Air Pressure I set the air pressure to between 10-15 PSI. That's enough air pressure to spray the coolant onto the tool and cut, but it's not really enough to clear chips. Increasing the air pressure causes the coolant to turn into mist when it hits the tool/cut. Probably need to use a separate air blast to clear chips. I've read that a pulsed air blast is very effective for chip clearing, and uses less air than a continuous air blast. Which Coolant To Use and How Much? Many coolants will work (except for alcohol or alcohol-based because it will damage the reservoir). A water-soluble coolant will work best. I'm using TRIM 690XT, and it is working well and easy to clean up. I diluted the coolant in water to about 10% coolant to 90% water. TRIM recommends 5-10%, so I chose the higher range due to the improved rust prevention, and better lubrication, and since the consumption is relatively low. I will experiment with a lower 5% coolant because then I could double the flow rate, which may improve the cooling, and easier to visualize the flow rate. Coolant Consumption When set between 1/8 and 1/4 turn it uses very little coolant. It appears to be about 1 drop per 2 seconds. A full reservoir of coolant lasted for several days of machining. The coolant barely makes it to the table before the water evaporates, leaving behind only the oily residue (which easily washes off the part with water). Part Cleanup Cleanup depends on the coolant you are using. The TRIM 690XT leaves an oily film on the parts, but it is easily removed by rinsing with water. PROS It's less than half the cost of a FogBuster. I was planning to DIY one, but the SST solution was cheaper if I took into account time spent making it. Works very well for CNC milling (only thing I've tested it with so far) Large adjustment knob for fine-tuning flow A strong magnet base to hold to spindle The 2 tubes are bonded together, making it easier to manage. Nicely constructed parts IMPROVEMENTS THAT COULD BE MADE WEIGHT ON PICKUP TUBING INSIDE THE RESERVOIR The pickup tubing inside the reservoir has a filter on the end but it's not heavy enough to keep the tubing down at the bottom of the reservoir. The new tubing that was included in my kit had a very strong curl to it that wanted to pull the tip of the tubing up to the top of the reservoir and therefore it would not have picked up any coolant. I had to add a nut onto the end of the coolant line to make it heavy enough to stay at the bottom. Once that coolant tubing relaxes a little bit it'll probably stay down there just fine. TUBING STRAIN RELIEF TO PREVENT KINKING Adding a strain relief to the tube ends where they connect. When the LubeCube was setup in a position that sharply bent the tubes, the tubes would eventually collapse and kink at the barbed connector. Adding a spring from a Harbor Freight spring assortment solved the problem, even when the tubes get stretched to their limit. Original tubing without the spring. It's not kinked here, but it didn't take much to kink it. Spring added over the tubing. Also pushed it over the barbed fitting. Closeup of spring over tubing and barbed fitting. The springs are from this kit, and can be purchased on Amazon. 7.93x44.4mm BACKFLOW PREVENTER CHECK VALVE NOTE: Juan says that they will be including check valves soon. The reservoir must be below the Lube Cube at all times otherwise the coolant will flow out of the Lube Cube due to siphoning and gravity. The downside to that is that the coolant tends to backflow into the reservoir when it is turned off. Space? A check valve is needed in line of the coolant tubing to prevent the coolant from back flowing. The check valve needs to have a very low cracking pressure, otherwise the coolant pressure won't be able to overcome the air pressure inside the mixing head. SOLENOID AIR VALVE NOTE: Juan says that they will be offering solenoid air valves in the future. In order to be able to automatically turn the Lube Cube coolant on and off using the CNC program and air solenoid needs to be added to the incoming pressurized air. The solenoid valve voltage needs to match the coolant output voltage of the CNC machine. In the case of a HAAS CNC milling machine that voltage which normally powers the coolant pump is 220 volts and since it's coming from three phase you can't just take one leg of that 220 to run a single phase 110 volt solenoid valve because there's no neutral in the connector on the CNC. Check this other post on how to install a solenoid air valve on a HAAS CNC mill. There are also 12V, 24V, 110V, and 220V solenoids available. RESERVOIR NOTE: Juan says that they are investigating alternate canisters, but they are all opaque. The reservoir canister can not be used with alcohol. Alcohol will make it crack. I'm not comfortable pressurizing (even at only 10-20psi) a canister that could crack and explode due to chemical exposure, even if I never use it with alcohol. I would like to put a metal cage around it to contain an explosion. Hopefully it never does, but I don't want to risk it. ADJUSTABLE ARM IMPROVEMENT USING THRUST BEARING The adjustable arm that comes with the kit is of the same quality as inexpensive dial indicator arms. The addition of a very inexpensive thrust bearing makes the arm as nice as a $100+ NOGA brand arm. It makes the arm backdrivable without losing tightness and allows the tightness to be fine-tuned to make it easier to adjust the arm. Watch this video to see how to add that thrust bearing. ▼ WHERE TO BUY THRUST BEARINGS ▶ uxcell F5-10M Thrust Ball Bearings 5mm x 10mm x 4mm Chrome Steel Single Direction 4pcs DREAM IMPROVEMENTS (Not realistic due to additional cost) The following are improvements that are unrealistic to add on for the current cost. They would significantly increase the cost of the system but also improve its usability. Pump Driven Coolant For Metered Flowrate One of the downsides to using air pressure, is that it's difficult to control the coolant flow rate, and it's not repeatable. Repeatability is important if the cutting job must be consistently reproduced in a manufacturing environment. The air pressure and knob control are really only suited for prototyping work where the operator is able to fine-tune the coolant flow. With a precisely metered flow pump, the flow rate setting could be saved as part of the job setup, such that it can be easily set again the next time the job is run. Check out this post for more information about using a pump to meter the coolant flow rate. DISCLAIMER: The products shown here were purchased by me with the intent to use them. I did not receive any free items, and I am not being paid or compensated for this review. The video, description, and comments may contain affiliate links. If you click on a link, I may receive a commission. Money earned helps to support my channel and bring you more informative videos about engineering, crafting, and DIY.

I've been working on a vise jaw design that can hold a workpiece of any shape. The jaws are designed to fit ontop of a KURT clone vise. These common, inexpensive machinist vises are clones of the popular D675 KURT milling vise.

The shop air compressor would benefit from a smart switch that could do the following. A timer that shuts off the air compressor after hours and starts it up again in the morning. This is simple enough, except that there are times when we want the air compressor to stay on after hours, like if we have resin items that are curing in the pressure pot. A simple timer won't account for these anomalies, and we would need to add a bypass switch and remember to enable the bypass switch. With a smart switch, it would be possible to add a switch or pressure sensor at the pressure pot line that gets turned on when the pots are on. This prevents the smart switch from turning off the air compressor. A remote shut-off that allows us to turn it on/off remotely from the smart home (SmartThings) app. An auto shut-off that will stop the compressor from running if there is a leak or burst air hose. It has happened a few times that an air line breaks or some large leak occurs and the air compressor runs nonstop. There are switches designed for pumps and air compressors that have timers that shut them down if they run for too long due to a leak. A smart switch could also be used for this but may require some basic programming. Using a smartwatch that can measure current/load, a timer could be set to shut down the air compressor if it is running for too long. Each of these requirements could be solved individually with individual components. However, a single smart switch could also solve all the problems at once. Watch the video to see how I did it, and continue reading for links to parts. UPDATE: Watch the PART 2 video for the electric unloader valve that is required to release pressure on the compressor motor if the power is cut mid-cycle. The 120V air compressors I use are already on the edge of tripping 15 to 20-amp circuits. The oil air compressor will often trip the circuit breaker, usually on start-up, while the oil-less air compressor rarely trips the circuit breaker, even when running continuously. Therefore the ~2 HP motors on these air compressors won't work with 15A-rated smart home switches. There are basically no 20A 120V plug-in smart home switches because 20A outlets are less common. This is the Kobalt Quite Tech oil-less air compressor that the switch will be used with. It has a 1.8HP motor. It's similar to the California Air Tools Ultra Quite air compressors, but the quality is a little lower. See the post where I replaced the prematurely worn piston rings with ones that I sourced myself because Kobalt doesn't offer replacement parts. The solution to controlling the air compressor power is to use a 40A 220V (but also works with 110V) smart switch. There are a few options available for this. Aeotec Heavy Duty Smart Switch, Z-Wave Plus Home Security ON/OFF controller, 40 amps The Aeotec Heavy Duty 40A smart switch works for 240V and 120V and fits the above requirements (Up to 5 HP AC Motor), but it doesn't have an onboard switch to turn it on and off manually. The integral switch is important because it can be overridden remotely. If a physical switch was added before or after the Aeotec, it would not be possible to override it remotely. WHERE TO BUY: Aeotec Heavy Duty Smart Switch Power Ratings: 2 phase (Split phase - US) 240VAC, 50/60Hz; Maximum: 9600 Watts 40A Resistive; 2400 Watts 10A Capacitive; 3840 Watts 16A Inductive; 240VAC 5HP AC Motor; 1 phase only (Split phase - US) 120VAC, 50/60Hz; Maximum: 4800 Watts 40A Resistive ; 1200 Watts 10A Capacitive; 1920 Watts 16A Inductive; 120VAC 5HP AC Motor; Enbrighten Z-Wave Plus 40-Amp Indoor/Outdoor Metal Box Smart Switch, Direct Wire, 120-277VAC, for Pools, Pumps, Patio Lights, AC Units, Electric Water Heaters The ENBRIGHTEN (GE) Z-Wave Plus 40A smart switch works for 240V and 120V and fits the above requirements, and it has a switch on the front to manually turn it on and off (Up to 5 HP AC Motor). This is the switch that I bought to control the air compressor. WHERE TO BUY: Enbrighten Z-Wave Plus 40-Amp Indoor/Outdoor Metal Box Smart Switch LINK TO SPEC SHEET The load can be wired in several different ways. The air compressor will be wired in 120VAC Single Load Energy Monitored. ISSUES TO CONSIDER Under normal operating conditions, a mechanical unloader valve opens at the end of the cycle to release the pressure between the compressor motor and the check valve at the tank. Cutting off the power to the compressor motor mid-cycle doesn't relieve the pressure built up in the line between the compressor motor and the tank. If the pressure is still there when electricity is re-applied to the motor, the motor won't be able to start again due to the excessive startup load caused by the pressure. An electric unloader valve must be used to release the air pressure each time the power is cut to the motor mid-compression cycle. The electric unloader valve can be tied into the copper tube that goes between the check valve and the mechanical unloader valve. The electric unloader valve should be normally open, such that it releases air when not powered. It should be connected in parallel with the compressor motor, such that it closes during the compression cycle and opens to release air when the cycle is complete and the motor stops. 1/4" Compression x 1/4" Bottom NPT Male Tee 1/4 Inch NPT 110V Brass Electric Solenoid Valve The products shown here were purchased by me with the intent to use them. I did not receive any free items, and I am not being paid or compensated for this review. The video, description, and comments may contain affiliate links. If you click on a link, I may receive a commission. Money earned helps to support my channel and bring you more informative videos about engineering, crafting, and DIY.

The HAAS TM1 is commonly sold without way covers. The Y-axis linear rails are exposed, and the Y-axis ball screw has a spring cover that can still allow chips and coolant through. The exposed linear rails can get damaged, and they collect a lot of debris, which can get through the ball-bearing block wipers and contaminate the ball bearings. HAAS does sell metal front and rear covers for the linear rails, but they are expensive and still don't cover the ballscrew. TM-1 Y-axis front way cover costs $1,195, and it's not clear if that's for one or a pair of them. Regardless, it is expensive to add way covers from HAAS. I don't believe that a rear way cover is available because there's not enough clearance at the rear when the table is all the way back. Y axis travel is 16 in. Z axis travel is 16 in. The Y axis linear rail spacing outer width is 17.5 in. A 24in wide cover will give plenty of coverage. FRONT WAY COVER DESIGN The front has an easy solution. Use a piece of heavy duty rubber, attach it to the front of the table (Y axis motion area only), install a roller over the area above the front Y axis bearing, hang the rubber over the roller, and add a weight to the end of the rubber. This mod will be a lot easier if the front handle is removed. The front handle won't be accessible anyways, so it doesn't matter. However, the servo motor parameters will need to be modified due to the lower rotating mass, and this is how to change that. REAR WAY COVER DESIGN The rear is more difficult, and will require a cover that collapses or rolls up. The easiest could be a spring retract rubber cover that rolls up. Here's a concept of how to use a spring loaded roller cover that only covers the Y axis ways and ball screw. The roller is on the underside of the cover, so the chips dump over the edge as the table moves back in Y. A brush should be installed on the underside of the roller to prevent stuck chips from being rolled up into the layers. It's possible to protect both the Y axis and Z axis simultaneously with the same rubber roll up cover. The roller can be mounted on the Z axis, right under the underside of the spindle neck. The rubber cover decends down towards the intersection of the Y axis rails and the rear wall of the machine. It goes under a roller (made from several narrow rollers to prevent smashing chips into the cover), and turns horizontally to cover the Y axis rails and ballscrew. The cover attaches to the back of the table (Y axis motion only). SPRING ROLLER COVER This company, AKON Skirting and Bellows, makes retractable way covers designed for CNC and industrial equipment. Unfortunately, they are quite expensive, starting at close to $1000. That's still less expensive than the HAAS way covers and covers the ball screw also. The $955 price is just the roller, no cover. The cover with front brush doubles the cost. Spring roller covers on Aliexpress ALTERNATIVE SPRING ROLL UP COVER SOURCES I haven't found any alternative spring rollers (only the roller) that could work for this. Everything is sold with the fabric. Fabric baby gates could provide a decent spring roller, but the life cycle on these is probably very low. Remove the fabric it comes with and install the neoprene coated nylon. It's so cheap, it's worth a try. The simplest way to protect the linear ways and ball screw from the direct stream of chips is the following design. The chips will flow down to the rear gutter which redirects the chips to the sides. The downside is that the linear rails are not well protected from the sides. Here's a list of materials that AKON has available for roll-up covers. Since machining steel can make very hot chips, it seems that the 40 oz neoprene-coated nylon or the 60 oz hypalon coated nylon are the minimum acceptable covers. McMaster sells 40 oz neoprene-coated nylon (0.040" thick). This could easily be used to cover the front ways using the roller and weight. 40oz neoprene covered nylon is also sold by the yard at other websites for much less expensive than Mcmaster Neoprene Tarp Fabric 40 OZ - $65 per yard Neoprene Tarp Fabric 40 OZ - $69 per yard It may also be possible to cover the rear ways by using a roller under the spindle neck, a roller weight hanging the fabric with the fabric tied back up under the neck. This would require a piece of material about 5 ft in length. The blue roller is mounted to the head of the mill. The white roller under the head is a weight, and is free to move up and down with the cover. It pulls the cover (orange) tight, removing slack from the cover as the table or Z-axis moves. The problem will be chips accumulating in the bottom roller area. Most chips will reach the roller when the Y axis is moving towards the rear of the machine. Chips can also enter the roller when the are thrown above the roller, and the Y axis is moving forward. An air or coolant blast could be used to remove the chips before they reach the roller. Adding a brush before the roller to prevent chips getting into the roller A segmented roller will reduce the amount of chips getting smashed into the cover fabric, but make it more difficult to blast off the chips. Raising the roller, such that the cover fabric is angled forward towards the table will make the chips collect closer to the table, where they can be air/coolant blasted away. The downside of this is that the cover fabric will be moved further away from the rails, exposing them more to chips from the side. Although, at 2 ft wide, the cover has a large coverage over the rails. Using a brush style roller could reduce chip damage to the cover, but will also catch chips and be more difficult to clean or blast out. The brush doesn't need to be continuous across the whole length. It could be cut into short sections. Example of a brush roller. Having a spring-loaded roller at the rear would solve most of the potential chip accumulation issues, because the roller could be on the underside of the cover fabric, and the chips would roll off the edge. A brush on the underside would remove stuck-on chips, before they enter between the layers of cover on the roller. ARMORED BELLOWS These are mainly used for vertical axis. Here's an example of some on Aliexpress. MEASUREMENTS OF THE REAR Y AXIS RAIL AREA TO COVER The rail to rail outer width is 17.5in. A cover should be at least 24in wide. This leaves some width for aluminum side guards to go under the cover. The max table to rear wall distance is 16in. The max Z distance is 32in. The total extended length of the cover should be about 48in + a few more inches for tolerance. The roller needs to be mounted high up under the neck, otherwise it could interfere with stuff on the table, like vises.

DISCLAIMER The following info are changes that were made to our equipment and for our reference only. Do not attempt to make any changes to your equipment. Only certified technicians with the proper skills are permitted to make changes to equipment. The HAAS TM1 (or HAAS TM-1P) came with large aluminum handles attached to the X and Y ballscrews, intended to be used by hand. I thought these would be useful, but in reality they are not. The position is awkward, which makes using them difficult. Their large diameter means that they require more energy to accelerate and decelerate than the ballscrew itself. This limits the acceleration and deceleration speeds. The red handles can't simply be removed from the HAAS TM-1, because the servo motor controllers were tuned with the handles attached. Removing them without retuning the servo motor controllers will cause the motors to oscillate, and will result in underdamped motion. HAAS TM1 STOCK VALUES 2 X P GAIN = 48 3 X D GAIN = 6000 4 X I GAIN = 32 16 Y P GAIN = 32 17 Y D GAIN = 4000 18 Y I GAIN = 32 30 Z P GAIN = 32 31 Z D GAIN = 4000 32 Z I GAIN = 64 HAAS MINI MILL STOCK VALUES (2007) 2 X P GAIN = 32 3 X D GAIN = 4000 4 X I GAIN = 64 16 Y P GAIN = 32 17 Y D GAIN = 4000 18 Y I GAIN = 64 30 Z P GAIN = 32 31 Z D GAIN = 4000 32 Z I GAIN = 64 STEP 1: Unlock The Parameters 1) Press Emergency stop. 2) Press the SETNG/GRAPH key. 3) Type 7 then press the down arrow. 4) Use the Left or Right Arrow to change to OFF. 5) When OFF is shown press WRITE/ENTER. STEP 2: Change The Parameter Settings for X 1) Press PARAM/DGNOS key. 2) Enter 2 3) Press down arrow. 4) Change parameter 2 (X Pgain) from 48 to 32 and press WRITE/ENTER. 5) Change parameter 3 (X Dgain) from 6000 to(which is 400ipm), and press WRITE/ENTER. STEP 3: Change The Parameter Settings for Y 1) Press PARAM/DGNOS key. 2) Enter 21. 3) Press down arrow. 4) Change parameter 21 (ACCELERATION) from 3000000 to 6000000 and press WRITE/ENTER. 5) Change parameter 22 (MAX SPEED) from 462394 (which is 200ipm) to 924788 (which is 400ipm), and press WRITE/ENTER. STEP 4: Change The Parameter Settings for Z 1) Press PARAM/DGNOS key. 2) Enter 21. 3) Press down arrow. 4) Change parameter 21 (ACCELERATION) from 3000000 to 6000000 and press WRITE/ENTER. 5) Change parameter 22 (MAX SPEED) from 462394 (which is 200ipm) to 924788 (which is 400ipm), and press WRITE/ENTER. STEP 3: Relock The Parameters 1) Press Emergency stop. 2) Press the SETNG/GRAPH key. 3) Type 7 then press the down arrow. 4) Use the Left or Right Arrow to change to ON. 5) When ON is shown press WRITE/ENTER. These are the default parameters TO BE CONTINUED....