STEPS TO EXPORT FROM MOBILE These steps are shown on an Android phone. The steps should be similar for Apple iPhone. - Open the ADOBE RUSH mobile app - Click on the settings (GEAR icon at the top right) - Click on Preferences - Click on Share Logs - Click on Share Project Files And Logs - Select your cloud storage of choice to upload the Project Files and Logs zip file to. In this case, I'm using Google Drive. Note that this does not upload any media. You will need to upload the media to PC separately. - Choose the cloud storage drive location to save the files to. - Now it's time to head over to the Windows PC. STEPS ON THE PC TO IMPORT RUSH FILES INTO PREMIERE PRO - Find the file named "Rush Project logs" that was uploaded using the cloud storage. - The file will not have a file extension. Single-click on it until it is renamable, and add the .zip file extension. - Extract/unzip that file - Open the unzipped folder - Open the "Team Projects Local Hub" Folder - Open the next folder "2021" or whatever it may show there. - Now there may be 1 or 2 folders "LOCAL" and "SYNCHRONIZED". Open one of those folders, and inside will be the RUSH project folders. They will have a long nonsensical name of hex digits. - COPY one or more of these folders. - On the Windows PC, go to the file location C:\Users\USERNAME\AppData\Roaming\Adobe\Common\Team Projects Local Hub\2021\local The AppData folder may be hidden. Enable show hidden folders to see it. - PASTE the folders from the mobile export into this directory. - Make sure that the media files associated with those projects have also been exported and are stored in a separate video project folder. - Now open ADOBE RUSH or ADOBE PREMIERE - On the ADOBE PREMIERE PRO home screen, click "Open Premiere Rush Project" in the lower left. - Select the new manually uploaded RUSH project. - PREMIERE PRO will pop up an error window saying "Missing media for these clips". Click LOCATE and find the folder where the media is stored. This will link the media to the project. Now the project can be saved as an ADOBE PREMIERE PRO project! Common ADOBE, would it be that hard to streamline this feature using our own cloud storage, like Dropbox, which you have already integrated into RUSH? At least please don't get rid of this workaround solution. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Thanks to this post by Nicole Evans and this post on the Adobe Community forum, I was able to piece together this work around.

MAINTENANCE Download the PDF Manual Variable Speed Belt Drive The variable speed belt replacement # is 1922V443 and can be purchased here on Amazon. MODS Table Lift Using a Chain Hoist VFD (Variable Frequency Drive) 110V Single Phase to 3 Phase Motor Driver There wasn't 3-phase power available where I wanted to use the drill press. A single-phase to three-phase VFD can be used to run the drill press motor from either 110V or 220V. The correct input voltage VFD has to be purchased for either 110V or 220V. The motor HP limit is much lower on the 110V, but enough for this drill press motor. Another advantage of the VFD is that it allows full-speed control. Although this works quite well, the stock 3 phase motor was never designed for speed control from a VFD, so it loses torque at slower speeds below 50%, and sometimes the controller will stop. At 100% it never has any issues driving the motor. WHERE TO BUY VFD 110V/120V Single Phase to Three Phase VFD 220V/240V Single Phase to Three Phase VFD

Breaking a tap is incredibly frustrating, especially when the part it's broken in took a lot of time to make or is expensive. The broken taps are often incredibly difficult to remove and if it is successfully removed, wasted a lot of time. It's not only taps, this also applies to broken drill bits, screws, sheared pins (that can't be pressed out). Existing EDM broken tap removal machines are expensive enough that only a large machine shop might invest in one. Although making use of it only a few times would pay back for it. Homemade Small Hole EDM for Under $20 (but does it work? The are using a solenoid which makes it retract automatically) - https://youtu.be/fRPmSgfIJqY?si=vXhnNk29SSmi_EAn Poor Man's EDM - Simplest design that I have seen. Electrode is attached to DIY solenoid. When the electrode discharges, the power energizes the solenoid and retracts it. https://www.shopfloortalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32279 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d9w-P8QAseg&feature=related http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KjBjxWWh82E&feature=related Jon Elson's Machining Page A Mini-EDM System The Home Built EDM Machine https://homebuiltedm.tripod.com/ EDM Power Supplies https://rackrobo.io/products/PCV2 Has outputs for current that can be used to control the motor drive speed. Only 180W Commercially Available Tap/Drill Remover EDM This is a very cheap, simple, low power EDM machine. 180W, manual drive "The diameter of the hole is 1-6mm. If the hole is more than 6mm, you can try to use a hollow brass tube. The depth of the hole is 8mm. If it exceeds 6mm, it is relatively slow. Because the impurities punched by the hole depth are not easy to discharge, it will cause discontinuous sparks. , thus slow." The linear slide can be motorized using a stepper motor. Can the current be sensed to automatically control the motor speed or retract? A water pump is needed. Only 180W Least expensive EDM broken tap remover ~$500 Parameter: Portable Broken Tap Remover Model: EDM-400C EDM-500C Voltage: AC220V 50/60HZ Input Power: 400W Output Voltage 80V Electrode Range 0.8-10MM Automatic travel 70MM Processing speed ≈1MM/MIN Features: 1, With Φ1-Φ5 brass electrode 2, It is suitable for taking M2-M12 broken taps, drills, screws, etc. with a breaking depth within 40mm.

THE FRAME The proliferation of inexpensive laser cutter engravers has dropped the cost of simple CNC machines that can support the load of a torch head. Normally CNC plasma cutter frames are built strong, often as strong as a CNC router. For non-industrial use, the frame doesn't need to be nearly as strong, so these basic laser engravers will work. $150 - 350mm x 350mm - https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_mP2J8hM DIY CNC Engraver Kits Wood Carving Engraving Cutting Machine Desktop Printer Logo Picture Marking, 40x50cm,2 Axis (500MW) Comgrow Z1 Laser Engraving Machine 5W Output Power, Laser Cutter and Engraver Machine 24V Compressed Spot 10000mm/min with Eye Protection for Wood Metal Glass Acrylic Leather 15.7"x15.7" Laser Engraver Machine,5.5W Output Power Laser Cutter and Engraver Machine,12V Compressed Spot 10000mm/min,Laser Engraving Area (400×400mm) for DIY Metal, Wood etc TTS-55 PRO 5.5W Laser Engraver Machine 40W Laser Cutter Laser Cutting Engraving Tool for Wood Metal Aluminum Glass Leather Laser Engraver, 50W High Accuracy Laser Engraving Machine with 410x400mm Large Working Area, 5.5-7.5W Laser Power Engraver and Cutter for Wood, Metal, Acrylic, Leather $159 - (390×410mm) - ORTUR Laser Master 2 S2 LU2-2 $245 - 1m x 1m frame (no laser) - https://www.ebay.com/itm/134222584547 THE PLASMA CUTTER A CNC plasma cutter requires a non-high-frequency start plasma cutter. In the past, these were expensive and sold by companies like Hypertherm. YESWELDER now sells some inexpensive non-high-frequency start (blowback start) plasma cutters that supposedly cut thin sheet metal just as well as the Hypertherm fine-cut consumables. This plasma cutter costs less than $200 (after the Amazon coupon is applied). WHERE TO BUY (AMAZON) YESWELDER CUT-55DS Pro - 55 Amp Plasma Cutter Non-High Frequency (YESWELDER WEBSITE) YESWELDER CUT-55DS Pro - 55 Amp Plasma Cutter Non-High Frequency THE TORCH HEAD Another advantage of the YESWELDER CUT-55DS Pro is the torch is easy to modify into a machine torch. The entire machine costs less than half the price of a Hypertherm machine torch alone. Watch this video to see how to easily modify it and use a 3D-printed part to house the modified torch design. Here's the inspiration video from John Hanskenecht, the maker of the 3D-printed housing. This is the 3D-printed housing that turns the YesWelder CUT-55DS PRO, or CUT-65DS hand torch into a machine torch. Buy the CNC Machine Torch Adapter for YesWelder CUT-55DS PRO Torch from John Hansknecht on eBay The torch heads is an IPT40 style. Replacement torch heads with cables are available here. How To Modify The Torch Remove the screws holding the housing together. Open the housing. Take out the torch head and cable. Disconnect the trigger wire from the switch. Cut the trigger wire going to the consumables sensor contact. Cut the zip tie building the cables together. Pull the trigger wire through the cable sheath. (Connect it to the CNC controller). Twist the air tube 180 degrees counterclockwise (loosen) such that the cables are now in line. Reassemble the torch head into the 3D-printed machine torch body. Mount the new DIY machine torch. How To Trigger Torch From Laser Cutter Controller The diode laser used on the inexpensive laser cutters usually has a 3-pin input. This needs to be adapted to trigger the plasma cutter torch instead. These are the standard connections: Ground Power (+5V to 12V) PWM Signal Laser There are these relay boards available that take a PWM input (usually from RC controller) and switch the outputs of a relay. Buy the relay board on Amazon. The torch trigger wires will be connected to the normally open contacts on the terminal block. The PWM signal is connected to the white or yellow wire of the input. The positive power from the CNC controller is connected to the red wire of the input. The ground from the CNC controller is connected to the black wire of the input. TORCH TRIGGER CABLE TO CNC CONTROLLER Once the torch is modified the torch trigger cable can be removed from the cable assembly sheath or a new cable with a 2 pin GX16 connector can be connected into the trigger port on the plasma cutter. This torch trigger replacement is a perfect cable to use to connect to the CNC controller. Cut the switch off the end and connect the bare wires to the CNC controller output. Trigger Extension Cable This extension cable can be used either as an extension, or cut to length and use the end that you need. ARC ON SIGNAL The arc on signal is used by the CNC controller to sense whether the arc is still on or not. If the arc cuts off, the CNC controller needs to know this and pause the cutting operation. The CNC plasma cutter machine will still work without an arc on signal output from the plasma cutter, but the machine won't know to stop if the arc is off. If you are constantly monitoring the cutting operation, and can shut off the machine if there is a missfire, then you don't need it. But if you want more reliable cutting, you're going to need the arc on signal. Most inexpensive plasma cutters won't have an arc on signal output. It can be added inexpensively in a few different ways. REED SWITCH The most inexpensive, and possibly easiest way to add an arc on signal is to use a reed switch. If the reed switch doesn't already have wire leads, solder two wires to reedg Use a small plastic tube a bit longer than reed body. Choose a tube that the ground lead can be wrapped around. This could be the external ground lead or the internal wire going to the ground lead connection. Secure the reed switch inside the plastic tube. Wind 3 turns of the ground lead around the tube Use zip ties to secure the windings in place. Wire the reed switch to the arc on signal input on the CNC controller. This is an example of what that looks like (image is from this post). I read about the reed switch method in these posts: https://www.forum.linuxcnc.org/plasmac/39120-plasmac-arc-getting-lost?start=10 https://www.cnczone.com/forums/waterjet-general-topics/37509-cnc.html https://forum.linuxcnc.org/plasma-laser/42627-arcok-when-not-built-in Glass style reed switches are the most basic form and require soldering to wires and potting it in something to protect it. Buy glass reed switches. The following reed switches are prepackaged with wire leads, and are therefore easier to install. Buy 2250-1051-100 Reed Switch These cylindrical plastic encased reed switches with wire leads are also a good option. Buy cylindrical plastic reed switch DC CURRENT SWITCH A DC current switch is an induction coil that goes around the ground or torch lead, and has an output that indicates whether there is current or not . The current sensing level is adjustable. The DC current switch needs to be powered from a DC power source. If one can be found within the plasma cutter, that can be used. Otherwise need to use an ac-dc power adapter. The diagram below shows 12/24 volts, but the voltage shouldn't matter. WHERE TO BUY DC Current Switch, Current Sensing Relay 0-300A Amp D366 Current Sensing Switch 1~200A DC 10~30V Current Sensing Switch THE CUTTING TABLE I'll be using my DIY plasma cutter table for this build. It's super easy to make. Watch how I made it: Water Table Pan An inexpensive source for stainless pans suitable to be used as water tables are ones sold for washing machines. They are available in several different sizes. https://amzn.to/48GvW2D How To Build CHEAPEST CNC PLASMA CUTTER Machine Affiliate Disclaimer The products shown here were purchased by me with the intent to use them. I did not receive any free items, and I am not being paid or compensated for this review. The video, description, and comments may contain affiliate links. If you click on a link, I may receive a commission. Money earned helps to support my channel and bring you more informative videos about engineering, crafting, and DIY

The battery life on our Dyson V7 and Dyson V8 vacuum was decreasing to the point where boost mode did not work for more than a few seconds. Normal mode was still usable but lasted less than half the time that it did when new. I would prefer even more battery life than new, especially to be able to use turbo mode for longer periods of time, and since we always use the brush. The fluffy roller brush is used most, followed by the regular carpet brush. Dyson sells replacement batteries which are expensive, and don't increase the run time more than what the vacuum was new. Third-party batteries are of questionable quality and safety. Most use no name, poor quality cells. They may work well when new, but the lifespan is likely to be much shorter. Any packs that claim more than about 2500mAh (for the normal size pack, which is 6 cells) are lying. Most 18650 cells that can handle the high current draw are in the 2500 mAh or less range. There are 1850 cells that have a higher capacity, up to about 3500mAh, but they can't handle the high current draw required by the Dyson vacuum cleaner. In addition, the BMS (Battery Management System) of a 3rd party may not be of as high quality as the Dyson BMS. So, the only way to effectively increase the run time is to use physically larger lithium cells or double the number of cells. When the cells are doubled, the batteries are placed in parallel, which has a downside that now the cells can go out of balance. There are a pleathora of 18V (or 20V deceptively advertised Dewalt batteries) power tool battery adapters. The problem with all of those is that the Dyson is actually 21.6V nominal (24V peak charged), so the 18V power tool battery voltages quickly drop below the cutoff threshold of the Dyson V7/V8 vacuum cleaners, and the vacuum will shut off long before the battery is drained. The only power tool batteries that will work like the original Dyson batteries are the ones advertised as 24V MAX (21.6V nominal). KOBALT's power tools are 24V MAX. There's also GREENWORKS 24V MAX and SNOW JOE 24V MAX. ▼ WHERE TO BUY Kobalt 24V Max Battery Convert for Dyson V7/V8 Kobalt 24-Volt Max 2-Pack 4 Amp-Hour Lithium Power Tool Battery Kit (Charger Included) ▼ WHERE TO BUY OTHER BATTERY ADAPTERS Greenworks 24V Max Battery Convert for Dyson V7/V8 Series Vacuum Cleaner CHARGING DOCK The problem with using any power tool batteries and adapter for a Dyson cordless vacuum is that you can no longer use the wall mount charger. It won't even fit on the wall mount, nor will it charge. I'm working on an add-on adapter that allows the KOBALT 24V Max battery to be charged while attached to the vacuum cleaner and acts as a wall dock. The KOBALT battery charger will be wall-mounted, and the Dyson with the Kobalt 24V battery will drop into the wall mount. The adapter will be 3D printed. It needs female contacts, which are difficult to find in exactly the same form factor as the factory ones. Here are some female contacts that should work: TE Connectivity AMP Connectors # 964326-1 | CONN SOCKET 13-17AWG CRIMP TIN Manufacturer's page These look like the same. MOLEX EXTreme Guardian Power Connector System 11.00mmPitch with 80.0A Per Blade SAFETY Using an OEM battery from a reliable cordless power tool brand like KOBALT is much safer than a 3rd party Dyson battery with questionable quality control, cell quality and battery BMS circuitry. Third-party Dyson batteries have caught fire and caused fires. I trust the KOBALT 24V Max batteries much more than a third party Dyson battery. DISCLAIMER: The products shown here were purchased by me with the intent to use them. I did not receive any free items, and I am not being paid or compensated for this review. The video and description may contain affiliate links. If you click on a link, I may receive a commission. Money earned helps to support my channel and bring you more informative videos about engineering, crafting, and DIY.

One of the most interesting metal 3D printing technologies is using lasers to melt a wire. Wire Laser Metal Deposition is a Directed Energy Deposition (DED) Meltio Laser Type: 6 x 200 W direct diode lasers Laser Wavelength: 976 nm Total Laser Power: 1200 W Layer Height: From 0.6 to 1.2 mm layer heights. Wire Feedstock Diameter: 0.8 – 1.2 mm Metals absorb lower wavelengths of light (approaching UV) better than higher wavelengths (IR). 1064nm fiber lasers are popular for engraving and cutting metals, but that is because of the intensely small focused spot that can be achieved. A common blue diode laser of ~450nm has much better absorption in most metals (reference). In fact these low-power lasers can cut 0.15mm stainless steel in a single pass using only 24W. For the 3D printer to work it has to form a melt pool to feed the wire into, similar to tig welding. Tig welder could also be used, but it would need to be pulsed to control the amount of heat imparted into the part. It's more difficult to control where the tig arc goes. The laser(s) need to be strong enough to create a small melt pool and feed the wire into it. Meltio's method is to use 6 lasers, which are probably slightly defocused so that they don't just vaporize the metal (like a focused fiber laser does). Their goal is to apply enough heat to form a small melt pool, not vaporize the metal. Although the consumer-grade blue laser diodes can cut through 0.15mm of stainless, they are probably focused small enough to vaporize the metal, versus heating it to melting. Will adding more blue laser diodes be enough to melt the metal at a spot and feed wire into it? 6 blue laser diodes are an expensive experiment. LASER MODULES NEJE E80 24W 450NM FIXED-FOCUS LASER MODULE WIRE Stainless Steel 316L - 250' - 36 Gauge Wire - 250ft - 0.13mm - 0.005in RESOURCES Investigation of filler wire melting and transfer behaviors in laser welding with filler wire

Ever since audio jacks have disappeared from smartphones, first Apple and now Android phones, it has become increasingly difficult to use an external microphone. At first, dongles worked ok to connect between the lightning jack or USB C and an audio jack, but as the phone's software gets updated, these systems break and the phones no longer recognize the audio jacks. I've struggled with finding a good solution for an external lapel or lavalier microphone that works with my Samsung smartphone, which no longer has an audio jack and requires a USB C dongle to connect. The Samsung brand USB C to audio jack dongle worked for a while, but that has now stopped working. When I plug in an external microphone (Rode Go) through the audio jack to a USB C dongle, it is no longer recognized by the phone as an external microphone, even though it switches to the headset. The issue is compounded by the fact that I have to remove the battery backup case to use any Bluetooth headset. When the Samsung Note 20 Ultra was newish, it worked great even with the case, but after a firmware update, the audio pass-through stopped working years ago. Bluetooth appears to be the only remaining option, which is not great, but it's going to have to work for now. DJI MIC 2 Enter DJI to the rescue with their versatile new MIC 2. This microphone was initially introduced with the DJI Osmo Pocket 3 Creator Combo and syncs seamlessly with the Pocket 3. It also has a Bluetooth connection that can be easily connected to your phone. Once connected to your phone, the phone's video recording app will have an option to select Bluetooth as the microphone. The Bluetooth connection has some audio compression, and there's nothing that DJI can do about that, but the audio is very usable and much better than the phone audio. I thought that the mic would record 32-bit audio onboard simultaneously, but it turns out that function doesn't work when connected to the phone. It states in the manual that this does not work. I've seen some YT reviews that say it records onboard simultaneously while connected to Bluetooth phone. That means your better off just using the microphone for high quality internal recording and sync it with the mobile phone audio. This doesn't work: The magic happens when you enable internal audio recording because the DJI Mic 2 will now also record a 32-bit audio onboard that can later be synced with the video to get crystal clear, interference-free audio on your phone video recordings. How awesome is that! This is the only bluetooth lapel mic that offers high-quality onboard recording. WHERE TO BUY DJI MIC 2 TRANSMITTER ONLY (Shadow Black) DJI MIC 2 TRANSMITTER ONLY (Pearl White) DJI MIC 2 (1 TX + 1 RX) DJI MIC 2 (2 TX + 1 RX + Charging Case) OTHER BLUETOOTH MICROPHONES Since DJI introduced the MIC 2, it's not even worth looking at any other existing bluetooth microphones. They have set the bar, and until someone else makes one better, this is the way.

HEATED ENCLOSURE DRYERS INLINE DRYERS I haven't seen any conclusive reviews that [inexpensive] inline dryers actually work. The common consensus is that there's simply not enough time spent in the heated region to fully dry the filament. IFD-175 EX by Thordsen 3D JMS 3D PRINTER FILAMENT DRYER This is a much more expensive dryer, but there is video proof that it works to dry nylon. Thought3D Drywise Filament Dryer STORAGE

WHERE TO BUY PRINTER: ELEGOO Neptune 4 Pro 3d Printer WHERE TO BUY ENCLOSURE: COMGROW 3D Printer Enclosure Watch my COMGROW 3D Printer Enclosure Review WHERE TO BUY FILAMENT: DURAMIC 3D PLA Plus Filament 1.75mm DURAMIC 3D TPU Filament 1.75mm Polymaker ASA Filament 1.75mm Black, 1kg ASA 3D Printer Filament, Heat & Weather Resistant Assembly tips To make it easier to attach the gantry, set the printer on its side and mate the gantry to it and loosely tighten the screws. Then set it upright and lower the Z axis such that the print head is all the way down to the build plate. Set the printer at the edge of a table such that you can access the gantry assembly screw and tighten it down. Do the same for the other side. Check the tightness of all the belts. If the X or Y-axis belts are loose, tighten them until there's no more slack. Filament Sensor In this video, I show how the filament sensor works, and how to reset after running out of filament. MODS Build Plate Adhesion Improvements The stock textured build plate has poor adhesion with PLA and PLA Plus. It works ok with ASA (ABS). For PLA, the smooth build plateshown in the video below by CREALITY works better. WHERE TO BUY BUILD PLATE: ▶ CREALITY Build Plate - https://amzn.to/3uREupw Warped Build Plate There's a design issue where the Y axis belt ends poke into the underside of the build plate, and can cause the build plate to warp if the leveling screws are tightened a lot. Watch this video to see the easy solution to that. Z-Offset Issues (Inaccurate Z-Homing causes first layer to fail) There are major issues with the Z-offset not remaining consistent. Many people report this issue. When you level the build plate using the sheet of paper and save that, it can be off by +/- 0.1mm when z homing is performed before the print starts. That means that the first layer is printed either too close to the build plate, and the nozzle scrapes through it, or it is too far away and the 1st layer doesn't adhere to the build plate. Although the other mods I have done have improved build plate adhesion and prevented the warping of the build plate, the Z-offset continues to be inconsistent. It's as if the non-contact induction distance sensor gives inaccurate readings. (NOTE: Using the Fluidd interface over ethernet, I found that the bed probe sample tolerance is very precise with a sample tolerance of around 0.002mm. The issue is not that the inductive probe isn't precise, it's that it's inaccurate due to temperature changes.) I thought about changing the number of [probe] samples in the printer.cfg file would help increase the precision of the z-homing distance, but the number of [probe] samples only affects the bed mesh probing cycle. The number of z-homing samples is controlled in the Kilpper firmware and there's no variable to change that (This post confirms that and there's no plan to change it). It does 2 cycles, and only uses the value of the final reading, not a mean of the 2. The only way to improve the z-homing accuracy is to slow down the speed for each cycle. I slowed it down to 5mm/s for the first and 2mm/s for the second. That actually seems to provide more accurate z-homing. The main culprit of the Z-homing inaccuracy is heat, both in the build plate and nozzle. Before setting the z-offset, the build plate and nozzle need to be heated up for a while (This video of a Neptune 4 Max shows it taking 25 minutes to stabilize, and although the Max build plate is larger, the same concept applies to the standard Neptune build plate). Heating up the nozzle also affects the distance readings, changing by 0.03mm between 140C and 220C. Therefore, the bed and nozzle should be preheated for 20+ minutes before bed meshing probing, z-offset calibration, and z-homing. When changing filaments that require different build plate and nozzle temperatures, the bed mesh probing, z-offset calibration, and z-homing should be performed at the filament temps before printing. Bed Mesh Probing NOTE: Using the Fluidd interface over ethernet, I found that the bed probe sample tolerance is very precise with a sample tolerance of around 0.002mm. The issue is not that the inductive probe isn't precise, it's that it's inaccurate due to temperature changes. Measurements taken at one build plate and nozzle temperature range will vary from measurements taken at another. Even changing the nozzle temp causes variations. The bed mesh probing is performed at 140C nozzle temp, yet no one prints at that temp. The difference in the distance reading from a stable 60C bed to a nozzle at 140C vs 220C was 0.03mm. Unfortunately, there's no way to change the 140C nozzle bed mesh probing temp from Fluidd interface, it is in the firmware. Combine that with variations in the build plate height if the build plate is not fully preheated, and the initial layer height offset can easily be off by 0.05 to 0.1mm. One solution that I would like to try is adjusting the [probe] values in the printer.cfg file. These are the default settings: [probe] pin:^PA11 x_offset: -24.25 y_offset: 20.45 z_offset: 0.0 speed: 10.0 samples: 2 samples_result: median sample_retract_dist: 3.0 samples_tolerance: 0.1 samples_tolerance_retries: 1 The default number of samples is 2. That means it takes 2 readings and averages them. Taking more than 2 readings (3-4 is a good starting point) and averaging will give a more consistent distance value. The sample tolerance is 0.1, which means that the sample values can be within 0.1mm of each other, which I believe is too much. KLIPPER's own probe calibration instructions say "If the results of the test show a range value that is greater than 25 microns (.025mm) then the probe does not have sufficient accuracy for typical bed leveling procedures. " Therefore the probe sample_tolerance should be smaller than 0.025, otherwise it should retry the sampling. The sample_tolerance_retries should be increased to 3. "It may be possible to tune the probe speed and/or probe start height to improve the repeatability of the probe." Therefore the sample speed should be reduced from 10mm/s to a slower speed, like 5mm/s. Slowing down the z-offset calibration is going to cause an insignificant delay compared to having a much more accurate z height. WIFI UPGRADE The Elegoo Neptune 4 series of printers has ethernet connection, USB, and micro sd card slot, but no WiFi. The easiest solution to making the printer wireless is to use a WiFi bridge. This WiFi bridge is conveniently powered from a USB port, therefore it can be powered from the USB port on the Neptune 4 printer. No extra cables or power adapters needed! Watch the video to see how to add the WIFI bridge and how to setup the wireless access: WHERE TO BUY WiFi BRIDGE Rail Wipers The linear rails on which the metal rollers roll need a light coating of grease. Over time, the wheels will compress dust and debris onto the rails, and the rails need to be cleaned and greased again. A felt wiper will keep the rail greased and clean it off at the same time, keeping the printer running smoother, and reducing maintenance. I will design a custom 3D-printed part that holds an appropriate-sized felt washer in place against the rail. The felt washer needs to be cut in half because only half of the diameter of the rail needs to be wiped. Air Filter I designed a HEPA + Activated Carbon air filter to remove the particulates and VOC from 3D printing and improve air quality. Read more about it here, and how to print your own.

Small heat exchangers that can bring fresh air into your house, apartment or RV are overpriced. They can be DIY'ed for far cheaper than what they are charging. Examples of small fresh air ventilator heat exchangers http://www.purifresh.com/erv.html https://accuraseemechanical.com/mini/ https://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-FV-04VE1-WhisperComfortTM-Ventilation-Patent-Pending/dp/B000XJNZ1Y/ VENTS-US Twinfresh Expert RA1-50-2 Ductless Single Room Energy Recovery Ventilator for Fresh Air Intake, Stale Air Exhaust, and Heating/Cooling Recapture - https://www.amazon.com/VENTS-Twinfresh-Expert-1-50-2-VENTILATORS/dp/B09HDC3FW7?th=1 https://www.ebay.com/itm/225666483066 https://www.ebay.com/itm/165946274085 This style uses a ceramic core and cycles the direction of the fan every 70 seconds or so to recuperate the heat at about 90% efficiency. It is absurdly expensive considering that the ceramic heat exchanger cores can be purchased for $30 - https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805773352155.html You should really have 2 of these that are synchronized, otherwise, when it is blowing air in, the excess air pressure will blow air out of the cracks of the room/house. And when it's blowing out, the low air pressure will pull air in from the outside through cracks in the room/house. Heat Exchanger Cores for DIY https://shop.prmfiltration.com/products/aluminum-heat-exchanger-core-12-x-12-x-4-inch-plate-and-fin-style?currency=USD&variant=32839552073791 Counterflow recover heat exchanger - https://www.ebay.com/itm/225205502348 Ceramic heat exchanger core - https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805773352155.html Have to change airflow directions every 70 seconds. To Be Continued...

ELECTRIC GEL BLASTERS UNDER $50 UNLOCX V1 (Blue and White) and V2 (Black and Gold) Pistols retail for $59, but are often for sale under $50. Shoots at ~220FPS. Mag fed. Accurate. COSMOXTOYS Aquanaut. Best hopper-fed blaster. 170FPS GEL BLASTER SURGE and STARFIRE - 175 FPS. Hopper fed. NERF PRO GELFIRE MYTHIC - This was initially overpriced for the FPS, but now that the price has dropped to $35, it's a great deal. The proprietary hopper can be modded to accept regular hoppers or soda bottles. XShot Hyper Gel Trace Fire - Hopper fed but also has a magazine for extra capacity. XShot Hyper Gel HPG-700 Blaster - Mag fed and great performance for less than $50. UNDER $100 UNLOCX V1 (Blue and White) and V2 (Black and Gold) Pistols still beats out anything under $100, even though it costs less than $50 UNLOCX 4in1 Gel Blaster Kit HYDRO STRIKE PULSAR PRO GEL BLASTER SURGE XL and STARFIRE XL COSMOXTOYS Sirius SPLATRBALL SRB400 SUB Splatrball SRB1200 UNDER $125 EMERBU Modified M4A1BLACK Gel Ball Blaster - Metal Gears - 11.1V CYMA M4 - Buy on Amazon or Buy on Amazon or (AKGELBLASTER) ANSTOY M4 (Gen 8 gearbox) UNDER $150 Lightning Blaster MRT Nylon by Geltactical Lightning Blaster CQB Nylon by Geltactical EMERBU Modified M4MK8BLACK Gel Ball Blaster - Metal Gears - 11.1V EMERBU Modified M4MK8TAN Gel Ball Blaster - Metal Gears - 11.1V EMERBU Modified HK416BLACK Gel Ball Blaster - Metal Gears - 11.1V UNDER $200 SLR CQB version 2 with metal gears UNDER $300 XYL ARP9 4.0 BLACK Gel Blaster Gun with Metal Gears XYL ARP9 v4.0 WHITE Gel Blaster Gun Stormtrooper Blaster Star Wars limited edition OVER $300+ Lightning Blaster Pro MRT Metal with Mosfet (full metal body blaster) MANUAL GEL BLASTERS Most manual gel blasters are fairly inexpensive, however, some of the replica blasters cost as much or more expensive than electric blasters. The main advantage is no batteries need to be charged! So as long as you have hydrated gels, you are good to go into battle! UNDER $20 XShot Hyper Gel Clutch Blaster. Pump action with an additional magazine. Gel Zone Stormer (Only available at Target) Hydro Strike Nebula Pro (Only available at Walmart) UNDER $50 NERF Pro Gelfire Raid Blaster. Pump shotgun-style blaster fires 5 Rounds at once. UNDER $100 Hanke M97 Shotgun (Replica) UNDER $150 Winchester Lever Action (Replica) CAUTION: Do not use gel blasters in public or where bystanders can get hit. Do not display replica blasters in public. Misuse can result in criminal charges. Always use protective glasses and safety gear. Ads Disclaimer The page, video, description, and comments may contain affiliate links. If you click on a link, I may receive a commission. Money earned helps to support my channel and bring you more informative videos about engineering, crafting, and DIY.

Usually the reminder to clean the gutters is when it's pouring down rain, and the gutters are overflowing, creating a waterfall in front of the house. This is never a good time to clean the gutters. Yes, cleaning the gutters several times a year will help prevent that, but in reality, unless you hire a service to come do it on a regular basis, it's not going to happen. ▼ WHERE TO BUY: ▶ RAPTOR Gutter Guard (Amazon) ▶ WATERLOCK Micromesh Gutter Guard with Drip Edge (Amazon) - or https://artofgutter.com/pages/waterlock-micromesh-gutter-guard I installed these micromesh gutter guards about 9 years ago now, and they are still going strong. I've never had to clean the gutters. Once every year or so I clean the mesh, and usually the spray from the hose is good enough to get that clean, and that's only necessary in certain high debris areas. Most of the debris flushed off. Depending on location, you may still need to clean the mesh, but only once a year or two vs cleaning gutters several times a year. And cleaning the mesh is as easy as spraying it with a high pressure hose nozzle, or using a brush. Much easier than cleaning out a gutter. The only thing lacking from Raptor Guard is a drip edge to keep your gutter face clean, which Waterlock Micromesh does have a drip edge, but their mesh is not as fine or strong, so they support it with aluminum underneath. Here's the difference with and without a DIY drip edge on the Raptor Guard Since the time I installes these, the brand has changed from "Leafs Out Micromesh Gutter Guards" to "RAPTOR Gutter Guards by GutterGlove", but the stainless micromesh gutter guard design still looks much the same as before, with some very minor improvements. Overall these have been amazing, and have held up well over the years. I'm happy that I don't have to clean the sludge out of the gutters anymore, and that there's no more waterfall during hard rains due to clogged gutters or downspouts. All it took was a few pinecones and leaves to clog the downspout and back up the gutters. We have a low pitch roof that needs to be cleaned a few times of the year. These gutter guards make cleaning the roof a breeze and safer since I don't need to go near the edge to clean them. Those gutter guard demos you see at fairs, flea markets, malls, etc are BS because they are staged and clean. Nothing is better than the real world at making a mess of stuff like this. Leaves, debris, moss, lichen, algae, branches, roof grit, seeds, the sun, and wind will all take their toll on these gutter guard products and render many of them useless. Real-life is the ultimate test and demonstration of whether these products will work in the long run. The micromesh styles are the best I've seen. At the time I purchased this, the Leafs Out brand was the best DIY micromesh gutter guard on the market. These are the improvements I would like to see. An improved method of mounting it (like to the back of the gutter instead of under the shingles. A drip edge that comes out far enough in front of the gutter for debris to drip off without dripping down the face of the gutter. Leaf Filter brand gutter guards have both of these improvements, but it is not DIY, and they only install through their contractors, which I don't like. Any gutter guards must be angled to dump debris over the edge of the gutter. People complain about debris accumulating ontop of the gutter guard. That happens if the gutter guard is installed flat, or angled back. The Raptor Guards are designed to go under the shingles, and so they naturally take on the roof pitch, which is great for shedding debris, but bad for allowing water to flow over. The best angle is mounting the guard below the roofline, but still angled forward to allow debris to be pushed off by the water, but not angle so much as to allow water to flow off. ▼ RAPTOR GUARD PROS: Keeps gutters clean! No gutter cleaning = safer for you and cheaper than hiring a gutter cleaning service. Self-cleaning design reduces the build-up of debris on top. Easy to clean with a floor brush if some build-up occurs. Absorbs impact from branches and protects the gutter. It's cheaper to replace sections of the mesh than the gutter. Very well built from aluminum extrusions and stainless steel micromesh. Durable and withstands sun and elements. DIY, no expensive install ▼ RAPTOR GUARD CONS: Does allow a little bit of water to drip over the edge when there are leaves and debris on the roof and gutter guards. Areas with high flow (like water coming off a valley or out of another gutter) can overwhelm the screen and water will flow over the gutter. A diverter on the edge of the gutter may be necessary. Debris gets pushed over the edge and ends up dripping down the face of the gutter. This makes the face of the gutter get dirty a lot faster. The product could use a wider drip edge so that debris does not run down the face of the gutter. Dents if hit by a branch, but that may actually protect the gutter from further damage if the mesh takes the impact. It's cheaper to replace sections of the mesh than the gutter. Time intensive to install Designed to go under the shingles, however, this can be difficult on long runs where the gutter elevation drops a few inches down the fascia board away from the edge of the roof. I would prefer if it hooked into the back of the gutter. WATERLOCK Micromesh Gutter Guard appears to be the DIY version of the Leaf Filter brand. They look identical, so it's likely that Leaf Filter is a reseller/installer of the WATERLOCK brand gutter guards. WATERLOCK Micromesh Gutter Guard with Drip Edge can be purchased on Amazon. OTHER GUTTER CONCEPTS FLIPCLEAN GUTTERS Flipclean gutters eliminate the issues present with gutter guards, by eliminating the need for a gutter guard. https://flipcleanguttersystems.com/ https://m.facebook.com/p/FlipClean-Gutter-Systems-CT-100028295665404/ Unfortunately they have to be professionally installed. Would be cool to just buy the brackets and DIY the install. The downspout connection also needs to be customized. The products shown here were purchased by me with the intent to use them. I did not receive any free items, and I am not being paid or compensated for this review. The video, description, and comments may contain affiliate links. If you click on a link, I may receive a commission. Money earned helps to support my channel and bring you more informative videos about engineering, crafting, and DIY.