HOW TO CHARGE THE STARTING BATTERY FROM THE HOUSE SOLAR PANELS (OR HOUSE BATTERIES) Ok, so we're successfully keeping the house batteries charged up using the solar panels. Now, how can the starting battery be kept charged when the RV or van is sitting unused for some time, or to prevent accidentally discharging the battery? The solution is a 12V to 12V DC-DC charger that goes from the house batteries to the starter battery. If there's already a 12V-12V DC-DC charger (like the VICTRON Orion XS 50A) going from the engine alternator to the house batteries, you need to make sure that both of these chargers are not running at the same time to prevent a charging loop that can run down the batteries. The easiest way is to use the ignition signal to only turn on the DC-DC house battery charger and turn off the DC-DC starter battery charger when the engine is running. The Victron Orion XS and Tr Smart DC-DC chargers used for charging the house battery have an auto-sense mode for when the engine and alternator are running. This needs to be deactivated, and the house battery charger needs to only turn on from the ignition on signal. The VICTRON Orion-Tr Smart 12/12-Volt 18 amp 220-Watt DC-DC Charger Isolated (Bluetooth) is a bit overkill for keeping the starter battery charged, but it's the smallest DC-DC charger that Victron offers and it will do the job very well. The wiring diagram below is for charging the house batteries. Reverse the wire connections for charging the starter battery. Connect S1 input to the ignition signal in a way that opens the circuit to prevent charging when the engine is running. HOW TO TURN OFF THE DC_DC STARTER CHARGER WHILE ENGINE IS RUNNING For charging the starter battery, the house batteries are the INPUT and the starter battery is the OUTPUT. We want to sense the ignition on signal, which is +12V from the starter battery to tell the charger to shut off. The remote on/off connector references the INPUT side of the charger, which is the house battery. If the ground is not isolated between the input and output batteries (as is the case in my setup, where the house batteries and the starter battery use the frame as a common ground), then triggering the charger on/off is easier. The +12V output from the ignition signal and a 12KΩ pull-down resistor can be connected into the L (low) side of the REMOTE input. When the +12V ignition signal is off, the L pin is grounded through the 12KΩ pull-down resistor and turns on the starter battery charger. When the +12V ignition signal is on, the L pin is raised to +12V and turns off the starter battery charger. If the ground is isolated between the INPUT (house batteries) and OUTPUT (starter battery), then a NC (Normally Closed) isolated relay (mechanical or solid-state) is needed. A solid-state relay is ideal. but NC solid-state relays are not common. A pre-wired mechanical relay like this is an easy solution: DPST 1NO 1NC 8Amp Power Relay Module, AC/DC 12V Control Voltage BATTERY SETTINGS The starting battery will be a standard lead acid battery or an AGM lead acid battery. Choose the correct settings inside the Victron Orion charger for the type of starting battery. Affiliate Disclaimer The products shown here were purchased by me with the intent to use them. I did not receive any free items, and I am not being paid or compensated for this review. The video, description, and comments may contain affiliate links. If you click on a link, I may receive a commission. Money earned helps to support my channel and bring you more informative videos about engineering, crafting, and DIY

It's time to upgrade the solar power and house battery charging system. Technology has improved since I first installed it and the charge controller I was using was designed for lead acid batteries, with too few settings for LiFePO4 batteries that I use now. This article focuses on mobile solar power for RV, camper, van and trailer use. Most of the electrical system components that I'll be recommending below are VICTRON brand. Their products might be a little more expensive than other brands, but it's totally worth it because the quality is exceptional, highly customizable but still simple to use, excellent bluetooth app, and the devices can all be setup in a network to communicate with each other. SOLAR PANELS Although the solar panels are arguably the most important part of the solar power system, they are also commodity items. Use whatever solar panels of good quality that fit your system needs. Choose name brands that have good reviews. How Many Watts Of Solar Panels Do I Need? Don't underestimate how weak solar panels actually are in real life application. A 100Ah 12.8V LiPO4 battery has an average of 1300Wh of energy (estimating about 13V average). That means it would take 100W panel 13 hours of direct sunlight to recharge, which isn't realistic. You'll rarely see the max wattage out of a panel, and in a static installation, only expect an average of 5 hours per day of full output. That means you need a minimum of 260W of solar to fully charge a 100Ah battery in 5 hours. Fully discharging the battery every day is too aggressive, because your max daily use should be limited to about 50%, such that you have capacity to compensate for days without sun. But when the battery does get discharged 100%, there needs to be enough solar to recharge it within a day. So to be conservative, you will need 300W of solar panel per 100Ah of 12.8V LiFeP04 battery. 3W of solar per 1Ah (13Wh) of 12.8V LiFeP04 battery. For 100Ah 12.8V LiFePO4 = 300W of solar For 200Ah 12.8V LiFePO4 = 600W of solar For 300Ah 12.8V LiFePO4 = 900W of solar For 400Ah 12.8V LiFePO4 = 1200W of solar You can see how the limit for a camper van is about 300Ah up to 400Ah if you also have a DC-DC charger than can charge off the alternator. The calculations above did not take into account the nominal load on the system while charging. If your load is pulling 5 to 10A, you will need 64 to 128W additional solar power capacity to cover the load in addition to charging the battery, else the charging will take longer. Mobile Solar Panels Any panels below 300W are designed more for mobile applications. These can be divided into rigid and flexible panels. Rigid Mobile Solar Panels Rigid panels have a glass face with aluminum frame. They are designed for a lifespan of 20-25 years (but will continue to work for much longer). I've used RENOGY brand 100W panels, and will now be upgrading to 175W panel because it fits perfectly within the width of the Sprinter van roof, without sticking out over the edge. 200W panels are only 8" wider, but that makes them stick out too far. Some people take 2X 200W panels and install them lengthwise on the roof, side by side and they don't hang over the edge. This is a good option if you have the open space for the 58" long panels. If rigid solar panels fit on your mobile system, then use them instead of flexible solar panels. Rigid solar panels will outlast and outperform flexible panels. They also provide shade for the roof vs transmitting heat. They are easier to service vs glue down install. Flexible Mobile Solar Panels Flexible panels can conform to curved surfaces and are much lighter than rigid panels. The downside is that they have a shorter lifespan as low as 3-5 years. Advertising claims 10-20 year lifespans, but in reality they don't last that long. They also pass heat through to the mounted surface and they are difficult to remove when glued down. Read this article here for the opinion from a solar company who has to service installations using flexible panels. Only use flexible panels if you need the low profile, low weight, confirming to curved surface, and you are prepared to replace them more often. Home or Commercial Solar Panels Solar panels for home or commercial use are normally 300+W per panel. They are cheaper per W than the smaller mobile panels. There are many quality brands, like REC that manufacture panels for other brands like Panasonic. Santan Solar sells a variety of new, scratch and dent, and used home/commercial solar panels for excellent prices. https://www.santansolar.com/product-category/solar-panels/ SOLAR CHARGE CONTROLLER I'll be using the VICTRON SmartSolar line of MPPT solar charge controllers. Although Victron is a high-end product, their solar charge controllers are very reasonably priced considering their capacity. To figure out what size (voltage and amps) solar charge controller you need, they have a very useful calculator. The controller voltage rating must be higher than the max PV (solar panel array) voltage. The interesting thing is that they recommend undersizing the current capacity of the controller by up to 130%. If you have 400 [rated] watts of solar panels charging a 12V system, the charge controller only needs to be 307W at 12V = 25.6A. The theory is that the panels never reach their max rating and a higher input current won't damage the controller. MPPT solar controllers have the highest efficiency at an input voltage of about 1.5X the battery voltage. The advantage of using higher voltages is smaller gauge PV wire needed and less voltage loss and better performance in shade and cloudy situations that cause a significant voltage drop. For solar installations with long runs of wire, the higher transmission efficiency of the high voltages is greater than the slightly lower charging efficiency of the controller. Shooting for an input voltage of 2-3X the battery voltage is ideal. On a typical camper van install: There's usually a max of 400W created by 4 x 100W solar panels. For a 12V system, these should be wired 2S2P, 2 in series and 2 in series (2 series pairs connected in parallel). The output will be about 44V. PV max voltage @ min temperature = 51.6 V. VICTRON recommends their SmartSolar MPPT 100/30, which only costs $128 (as of 2024) on Amazon. That is a very good price for such a feature rich controller. The Bluetooth connectivity and the app are amazing. Also, the stored trends and instant readout options are very useful. Stored trends shows a history of all the data that you may want to see to determine what is going on with the system. The instant readout shows the important data for each Victron device from the home screen of the app without needing to connect directly to a specific device. BATTERIES Before buying LiFePO4 batteries, one of the most important factors to consider is whether the batteries will ever need to be charged in sub-freezing weather (they are not in a climate-controlled area). If yes, then you will need a heater to warm the batteries up well above freezing before they can be charged. Otherwise, if the batteries don't have a low-temperature protection, charging them below freezing will damage them. Even if they do have a low-temperature protection, but now heater, they can only be discharged below freezing, but not charged. That could lead to a situation where the weather stays too cold for too long to charge the batteries and they fully drain. The following list of batteries focuses on low cost. There are plenty of more expensive, very high-quality battery brands out there, but it gets expensive fast when you have to buy several batteries. These batteries are a balance of quality vs cost, and usually, as long as the cells are good quality and the BMS is decent, the battery will last the same as the expensive brands. Self-Heating LiFePO4 Batteries Self-heating batteries are usually about $75 to $100 more than ones that only have a low temp cutoff, but the cost difference is worth it for 1-4 battery systems over trying to rig up a heater that may or may not work reliably. For a larger battery system, a heated enclosure will save money and protect the batteries better. I've posted information about self-heating LiFePO4 batteries on this page, listing them from the least expensive upwards. Low Temp Protected LiFePO4 Batteries (Not self-heating) Low-temperature protected batteries prevent charging below freezing. They cost a little bit more than batteries that don't have this feature, but it's worth it to be safe. If your solar charger has a low temp cut off, that could be used instead, however, all other chargers also need to have a low temp cut-off. REDODO has a very low cost battery with low temp cut off. This brand has reviews and teardowns on YT that show that it has a quality build and are well made batteries. Click here to buy on Amazon. LiTime 12V 100Ah Group 24 Bluetooth LiFePO4 Battery, Deep Cycle Lithium Battery, Built-in 100A BMS with Low-Temp Protection This battery also has Bluetooth to monitor it. LiTime has good ratings and teardowns and tests can be seen on YT. WATTCYCLE 12V 100Ah LiFePO4 Lithium Battery - 20000 Cycles, Built-in 100A BMS, Low Temperature Protection I posted this to show the a low cost battery with low temp cut-off I can find, but the quality is unknown, so do your research before buying. NOTE: It's not clear whether the low-temperature cutoff applies to charging or discharging. MOSEWORTH 12V Lithium Battery, Lifepo4 Battery 100Ah Low Temp Cutoff I posted this to show the current lowest-cost battery with low temp cut-off I can find, but the quality is unknown, so do your research before buying. NOTE: It's not clear whether the low-temperature cutoff applies to charging or discharging. LiFePO4 Batteries Without Low Temp Cutoff LiFePO4 batteries without a low-temperature cutoff should only be charged in a climate-controlled area so that they are never exposed to freezing temperatures while charging. These 12.8V 100Ah Mini LiFePO4 batteries by REDODO are more compact to save space in the system. REDODO batteries are well reviewed on YT with lots of tests and teardowns LiTime 12V 100Ah BCI Group 24 LiFePO4 Battery, 100A BMS Rechargeable Lithium Battery LiTime has good ratings and teardowns and tests can be seen on YT. ECO-WORTHY 12V 200AH (2Pack 100AH) Mini Size LiFePO4 Lithium Iron Phosphate Battery with BMS These are well-reviewed batteries and should be reliable. Power Queen 12V 100Ah LiFePO4 Battery, 1280Wh Lithium Battery with 100A BMS I haven't researched the quality of these yet. Do your research before purchasing. DC-DC CHARGER (HOW TO CHARGE FROM ALTERNATOR) To charge a LiFePO4 12V battery from the engine alternator, you need a 12V-12V DC-DC charge controller. The VICTRON Orion XS 50A is an excellent 12/12 Volt DC-DC charger. It has a 98.5% efficiency rating which allows it to be very small without a finned heatsink. It does not get hot like the previous generation 12-12V DC/DC chargers. It has a 50A output, which is quite a lot for the size. If your alternator can output more (while still powering the vehicle electrical system), then another Orion XS can be setup in parallel for 100A output. BATTERY CURRENT MONITOR (SHUNT) A battery current monitor shunt is important for monitoring the state of charge of the battery bank. There are 2 main options for this from Victron. The SmartShunt does not have a display (Bluetooth only) and needs to be configured and view data from the app. Supposedly the bluetooth range of this device is quite short compared to the BMV-712 The BMV-712 has a remote display and Bluetooth. Settings can be configured from the display and also from the app over Bluetooth. Basic data can be viewed on the display, and more detailed data can be viewed on the app. Supposedly the Bluetooth range on this device is much further. It has an onboard alarm that can be set to alert about issues It has an onboard relay that can trigger other devices. Victron Energy SmartShunt 500 amp Battery Monitor Victron Energy BMV-712 Smart Battery Monitor HOW TO CHARGE THE STARTING BATTERY FROM THE HOUSE SOLAR PANELS (OR HOUSE BATTERIES) Ok, so we're successfully keeping the house batteries charged up using the solar panels. Now how can the starting battery be kept charged when the RV van is sitting unused for some time, or to prevent accidentally discharging the battery. The solution is a 12V to 12V DC-DC charger that goes from the house batteries to the starter battery. If there's already a 12V-12V DC-DC charger going from the engine alternator to the house batteries, your gonna need to make sure that both of these are not running at the same time to prevent a charge loop that can run down the batteries. The easiest way is to use the ignition signal to only turn on the DC-DC house battery charger and turn off the DC-DC starter battery charger when the engine is running. The VICTRON Orion-Tr Smart 12/12-Volt 18 amp 220-Watt DC-DC Charger Isolated (Bluetooth) is a bit overkill for keeping the starter battery charged, but it's the smallest DC-DC charger that Victron offers, it will do the job very well, and it can be monitored over Bluetooth. The wiring diagram below is for charging the house batteries. Reverse the wire connections for charging the starter battery. Connect S1 input to the ignition signal in a way that opens the circuit to prevent charging when the engine is running. SYSTEM DISPLAY Although there are dedicated displays sold by Victron to see the full status of the solar power system, the cheapest method is to use the free Victron Connect app. It can be used from your phone, but if you want to install a dedicated display use an old phone or a cheap Android device and install that permanently somewhere. The app has a setting that keeps it open all the time if needed. INVERTER FOR DC to AC POWER Use whatever inverter you want that fits your application. Be aware that the DC current draw of the inverter doesn't exceed the discharge rate of the batteries (nominally 1C, ie a 100A max draw from 100Ah battery), and that the DC power cables are sized appropriately for the current draw. I learned the hard way that a microwave uses a lot more power than it's advertised power (output power). A 700W microwave can use up to 1200W. That means a 1000W inverter will not run a 700W microwave. The only microwave I POWER DISTRIBUTION BLOCK (BUS BAR) 4 Post Power Distribution Block Bus Bar Pair with Cover - Made in The USA - 250 Amp Rating - Marine, Automotive, and Solar Wiring, 3/8" Red + 5/16" Black Affiliate Disclaimer The products shown here were purchased by me with the intent to use them. I did not receive any free items, and I am not being paid or compensated for this review. The video, description, and comments may contain affiliate links. If you click on a link, I may receive a commission. Money earned helps to support my channel and bring you more informative videos about engineering, crafting, and DIY

Self-heating LiFePO4 batteries are necessary for use in non-climate-controlled areas that go below freezing. Charging LiFePO4 batteries below freezing will damage them and reduce their capacity and lifespan. At a minimum, the batteries should have low (and high) temperature cut off (the BMS should control this, but not all do). Even with a low temp cut off, the battery can't be charged without heating it up first, so you need to add a heater pad or some heat source to the battery. Self-heating batteries are a little more expensive, but solve the issue of charging below freezing. The least expensive self-heating 100Ah LiFePO4 battery I have found is this one. It and the associated brand appear to be brand new and there are no reviews anywhere except for a few on Amazon. It's a big risk to buy it, but the investment is a lot less than the more expensive batteries. $209 - SUNRICH ENERGY - 12V 100Ah Self-Heating LiFePO4 Battery BCI Group 31 Lithium Battery Built-in 100A BMS w/Low Temp Protection It claims "equipped with dual-layer heating pads totaling 100W. It can heat the battery from 41℉ to 50℉ in about 30 minutes, twice as fast as products with only 50W heating power. Perfect for the chilly winters across the US (except for a few extremely cold days)." At least they are honest about the extremely cold days. Adding some thermal insulation around the outside maybe benefficial, like a carbon fiber blanket. 【Low Temperature Cut Off】SUNRICH ENERGY lithium batteries feature smart BMS for cold weather protection. If the battery temperature drops below 32℉, charging stops; once it rises above 41℉, charging resumes. If it falls below -4℉, the low-temperature shutdown prevents discharging, safeguarding the battery from cold damage in harsh winter conditions. Measures 12.8" x 6.6" x 8.5" I purchased 2 of these batteries and when I recieved them, the box was taped up with RICH SOLAR tape and RICH SOLAR labels. So SUNRICH is a sub brand of RICH SOLAR (the connection is so obvious now 😂). RICH SOLAR is an established and reputable brand of solar power and battery products, so I would expect the quality of these batteries to be to par with with their other products, and better than random name amazon products. This is the box that the SUNRICH batteries shipped in. The model number is SE-B100. They tried to cover up the RICH SOLAR label on the box. I couldn't pull off the label covering the RICH SOLAR label, but It was slightly transparent, so I was able to take a picture and enhance it. It reads: RICH SOLAR Lithium Iron Battery Model No: SE-B100 Nominal Voltage: 12.8V Nominal Capacity: 100Ah(1280Wh) Carton Number: 50/50 Made In China Even before opening this box, I'm much more confident about my purchase and the performance and quality I should expect from these batteries. $296 - REDODO 12V 100Ah LiFePO4 Battery with Self Heating, Supports Low Temperature Charging Lithium Battery, Group 31 Battery with 100A BMS This battery has reviews and teardowns online. Quality looks good and positive opinion of the batteries. Redodo 12.8V 100Ah LiFePO4 battery heater is equipped with dual heating pads with a combined power of 100W, which delivers a significant boost in heating capability. It only takes 30mins heating the battery cells from 14℉ to 41℉, 2X faster heating speed compared to others which needs 60mins due to only 50W heating power. Stay always prepared for low temp conditions and experience the convenience of a rapid and reliable heating solution. 【Support Low Temp Cut Off】Redodo 12.8V 100Ah LiFePO4 battery self heating supports low temperature cut off, where the battery will stop charging when the battery cells' temperature falls below 32℉ and resumes charging when the temperature rises above 41℉. Apart from that, it can also stop discharging when the temperature drops below -4℉. Choose Redodo 100Ah battery with low temp cut off protecion for peace of mind, regardless of the damage of your batteries in freezing conditions. $399 - EPOCH 12V 105Ah - Group 24 - Heated & Bluetooth LiFePO4 Battery These are high-quality, very well-made batteries. $499 - 12V 100Ah Marine Battery - Lithium Trolling Motor Battery Battery build quality is impressive. Affiliate Disclaimer The products shown here were purchased by me with the intent to use them. I did not receive any free items, and I am not being paid or compensated for this review. The video, description, and comments may contain affiliate links. If you click on a link, I may receive a commission. Money earned helps to support my channel and bring you more informative videos about engineering, crafting, and DIY

How To Repair Multiport Valve Diverter Tutorial on how to replace the rusted spring and rebuild a PENTAIR multiport valve diverter on a pool filter multiport valve. These springs only last a few years max, and then most people buy a whole new multiport valve diverter top assembly, which costs at least $150, and I've heard pool stores charge as much as $450 for. These springs can be purchased for less than $5, and easily replaced with basic hand tools. ▼ WHERE TO BUY MULTIPORT SPRING The multiport valve spring rusts out pretty quick and will prevent your multisport valve from sealing. Replacing the spring is a lot cheaper ($10-$40) vs replacing the whole multiport valve head ($150+). For this Pentair 2" multiport valve, the spring is 1-5/8in in diameter by 1-3/8in tall. ▶ Pentair 271161 Valve Spring Replacement for HiFlow Top and Side Mount Pool/Spa Multiport Valve (AMAZON) ▶ Pentair 271161 Valve Spring Replacement for HiFlow Top and Side Mount Pool/Spa Multiport Valve (POOL WAREHOUSE.COM) ▶ This HAYWARD SPX0603S spring is the same dimensions as the Pentair 2" spring, so it can also work. It's a lot less expensive than the Pentair spring. ▶ This is a 4 pack of springs for Hayward brand valves, but has the same dimensions as Pentair 2" valve spring. SPX0603S ▼ WHERE TO BUY PARTS NEEDED TO REBUILD THE MULTIPORT VALVE COVER/DIVERTER ASSEMBLY ▶ #23 - Part # 191479 - O-rings - 7/8 Inch ID x 1-1/8 Inch OD x 1/8 Inch - (2 Needed) ▶ #21 - Part # 271161 - Valve spring ▶ #24 - Part # 271160 - Washer, valve spring (not necessary to replace if old one is in good condition) ▶ #25 - Part # 271157 - Washer, handle (not necessary to replace if old one is in good condition) ▶ Pool O-Ring Lubricant ▼ WHERE TO BUY MULTIPORT TOP ASSEMBLY The Pentair 2 inch multiport top valve assembly is part # 270067 ▶ Pentair 270067 2-Inch Top Valve Assembly Replacement Hiflow Top and Side Mount Pool/Spa Multiport Valve MULTIPORT VALVE DETAILS The label on the top of the multiport valve says valve body part number is 261152. I believe that is incorrectly labeled, because that valve is only for DE filters (not the Triton II sans filter). The correct valve body part # for use with the Triton II sand filters is 261055. The difference is the flow direction of the valve. The top cover, handle, and diverter are the same for both variations of the valve body. Multiport Valve Product Name 2" Valve Kit Multiport, Side Mount Sand Filters SM-20-3 Multiport Valve Manufacturer Part Number 261055 Parts needed to rebuild the Multiport Valve Cover/Diverter assembly #23 - Part # 191479 - O-rings - 7/8 Inch ID x 1-1/8 Inch OD x 1/8 Inch T #21 - Part # 271161 - Valve spring #24 - Part # 271160 - Washer, valve spring (not necessary to replace if old one is in good condition) #25 - Part # 271157 - Washer, handle (not necessary to replace if old one is in good condition) Specifically, this information is for the Cedar Park Pool and Clubhouse. ▼ VISIT OUR WEBSITE ▶ Products we make: https://soulbuilt.us ▶ Engineering: https://www.engineerable.com ▼ FOLLOW US ON: ▶ Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/soul.built/ ▶ Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/soulbuilt.us #pool #poolrepair #poolfilter How To Replace Spider Gasket on Pentair Pool Filter Multiport Valve | Cedar Park Pool Affiliate Disclaimer The products shown here were purchased by me with the intent to use them. I did not receive any free items, and I am not being paid or compensated for this review. The video, description, and comments may contain affiliate links. If you click on a link, I may receive a commission. Money earned helps to support my channel and bring you more informative videos about engineering, crafting, and DIY

Stonewashed means washed with stones. The reality of washing with stones is that it makes a lot of mud, the stones grind down fast, and small stones will jam themselves impossibly hard into every crack and space. This is the tumbling media that I settled on for stonewashing titanium parts in a vibratory tumbler. It works great to give a consistent stonewashed finish. 3/8 3/8 ah41 TRI STAR - more aggressive - 5500-10602 https://massfin.com/shop/ceramic-media/ceramic-tri-star-media/10-12-dz-rm-tri-star/ How to keep media out of holes

DISCLAIMER The following info are changes that were made to our equipment and for our reference only. Do not attempt to make any changes to your equipment. Only certified technicians with the proper skills are permitted to make changes to equipment. Open TM1 milling machines were limited to 200IPM rapid speeds. Enclosed TM1P machines have 400IPM rapids. STEP 1: Unlock The Parameters 1) Press Emergency stop. 2) Press the SETNG/GRAPH key. 3) Type 7 then press the down arrow. 4) Use the Left or Right Arrow to change to OFF. 5) When OFF is shown press WRITE/ENTER. STEP 2: Change The Parameter Settings for X 1) Press PARAM/DGNOS key. 2) Enter 7. 3) Press down arrow. 4) Change parameter 7 (ACCELERATION) from 3000000 to 6000000 and press WRITE/ENTER. 7) Change parameter 8 (MAX SPEED) from 462394 (which is 200ipm) to 924788 (which is 400ipm), and press WRITE/ENTER. STEP 3: Change The Parameter Settings for Y 1) Press PARAM/DGNOS key. 2) Enter 21. 3) Press down arrow. 4) Change parameter 21 (ACCELERATION) from 3000000 to 6000000 and press WRITE/ENTER. 7) Change parameter 22 (MAX SPEED) from 462394 (which is 200ipm) to 924788 (which is 400ipm), and press WRITE/ENTER. STEP 4: Change The Parameter Settings for Z 1) Press PARAM/DGNOS key. 2) Enter 21. 3) Press down arrow. 4) Change parameter 35 (ACCELERATION) from 3000000 to 6000000 and press WRITE/ENTER. 7) Change parameter 36 (MAX SPEED) from 462394 (which is 200ipm) to 924788 (which is 400ipm), and press WRITE/ENTER. STEP 5: Relock The Parameters 1) Press Emergency stop. 2) Press the SETNG/GRAPH key. 3) Type 7 then press the down arrow. 4) Use the Left or Right Arrow to change to ON. 5) When ON is shown press WRITE/ENTER. These are the default parameters

ENCLOSURES Ammo Box Style Enclosures Ammo boxes have been proven to contain lithium battery fires. The gasket needs to be removed to allow the box to vent. That means that toxic fumes and smoke will still escape and damage the area they are in. Flames can also shoot out the gap between the body and lid and burn things closeby. Adding insulation on the walls using cement wallboard or ceramic wool insulation to reduce the heat transmitted to the outside of the box. Ceramic wool needs to be in capsulated to protect the fibers. Adding dividers forultiple batteries. Dividers should be made from a fireproof material, like cement wallboard or ceramic insulation board. Add a vent filter to reduce toxic fumes. Vent filter housing and connection need to be made of metal. Standard 50cal Ammo Box Heavy Duty Metal Ammo Can, Tactical Waterproof Lockable Ammo Crate. Outer dimensions measuring 16" x 5-1/2" x 9.25" (L x W x H) and inner dimensions at 14” x 5” x 8.5" (L x W x H) The advantage of this box is that it is shallow, wide and deep. That makes it easier to use the room inside. FILTERS The enclosures need ventilation, which also requires filtration to reduce the toxic fumes being vented. Organic vapor and acid filtration The canister needs to be metal so that it doesn't melt Unless kept sealed, the canisters need to be replaced every 1-2 years. Off the shelf filter options MSA COMFO® RESPIRATOR CARTRIDGES, ORGANIC VAPOR/ACID GAS/P100 - 815180 MSA Multi Gas Chemical Cartridges 492790 Comfo Respirator GME filter (Without particulate pre filter) EXTINGUISHING FIRES

This beach shade design is supported by poles inserted into the ground and therefore does not need a sandbag and cord in front to hold it up. Using two 11ft by 9ft beach blanket provides up to 200 square feet of shade. To hold it in the sand, I used 2 beach umbrella lower poles from beach umbrellas that had been thrown away. The poles are 25ft of heavy-duty aluminum tent poles, although fiberglass tent poles could also work. The aluminum poles are stronger, stiffer and corrosion-resistant. The leading edge pocket pass-through for the tent pole was made using strong double-sided fabric tape, so no sewing was necessary. Watch the video to see how to set it up and how it's made. Since this design does not use the sand bag and cord to keep it up or any anchors, it is not protected by the patents, and therefore can be DIY'd. There is prior art that exists of cordless shade designs like this that use poles in the ground for support. That prior art is even referenced by their patent. Beach Shade LLC (who was previously sued for selling a copy of the that used the sandbag and cord tied to the leading edge) have recently (in 2023) started selling something similar to this design. Beach Shade LLC uses sand screws that are similar to beach umbrella sand screws instead of beach umbrella poles. The sand screws are shorter and don't provide as much support for the tent pole arch as the beach umbrella poles do. Therefore the arch flexes a lot more in the wind than this DIY design shown here. ▼ WHERE TO BUY PARTS: ▶ Tent Poles - 25 feet in length (These are large diameter and strong) ▶ Fabric (microfiber beach blanket works great and is quieter than Silpoly rip-stop fabric) ▶ Fabric Tape (No Sew) ▶ 2 beach umbrella lower poles (Harvested from old/broken beach umbrellas. They get thrown away all the time at the beach.) Alternative poles are PVC pipe, aluminum/steel pole ~1 inch diameter, or anything similar to a beach umbrella lower pole. ▶ Sand Gopher (Sand digger tool for beach umbrella hole) ▼ HOW TO MAKE 1 - Assemble the tent poles to 25ft length. The tent poles are a kit and don't have the shock cord installed. You have to choose the length that you want by linking the sections together and then decide whether you want to use the shock cord or not. 2 - Cut off and remove the storage pocket and corner sand pockets from the beach blankets. Leave the tie-out straps in the corners of the blankets. 3 - Fold over about 2 inches of fabric on the front edge, and use the fabric tape to permanently hem it, leaving a pocket for the tent poles to slide through. No sewing is necessary. Press down firmly in the taped area to make sure it is fully bonded. I walked along the edge a few times to make sure proper pressure was applied. 4 - Apply 2 strips of tape to the long edge of one blanket. Overlap the edge of the other beach blanket onto the one with the tape. Press down firmly on the taped edge to make sure it is fully bonded. I walked along the edge a few times to make sure proper pressure was applied. ▼ HOW TO SETUP 1 - Slide the tent pole through the hem pocket you made earlier. Leave the fabric bunched up about 3 feet from one end. 2 - Use the Sand Gopher tool to make an angled hole for the beach umbrella lower pole (think about the angle that the arch will form when perpendicular to the wind). 3 - Slide the umbrella lower pole into the hole in the sand. 4 - Slide the end of the tent pole closest to the bunched up fabric into the umbrella pole in the sand. 5 - Bend the tent pole into an arch (perpendicular to the wind). Where the bare end of the tent pole meets the sand, use the Sand Gopher to dig another umbrella pole hole. 6 - Slide the umbrella lower pole over the bare tent pole end and insert into the hole in the ground. 7 - Slide the beach blanket fabric to center it on the tent pole arch. 8 - Use left over bungee cord to tie the leading edge beach blanket edges to the umbrella pole to keep the blanket stretched out. 9 - Enjoy! 10- If it needs to be repositioned because the wind direction has shifted, use the Sand Gopher to dig a new hole at one end, pull the umbrella pole out of the ground, and insert it into the new hole. PRIOR ART This is one of the prior art Non-Patent Citations on the Shibumi patent. There are a list of Youtube videos, but most no longer exist (I wonder why...). The "How to setup a butterfly arch" video does still exist and shows a video of a decorative shade arch that uses poles/stakes inserted into the ground to support the arch. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FOTYtjQAL4s This video was posted on May 26, 2012, years before the Shibumi patents were filed. Screenshots from the video with date stamps were taken for the purpose of evidence of prior art in case this video should disappear from Youtube in the future. Below you can see one of the legs and how it is anchored to the ground. In the image below, they are shown hammering the pole/stake into the ground. This is the support piece for the ends of the shade arch. Here's another better video by the same user that shows how to set up the sun shade and clearly shows the shade arch staked into the ground at the ends and the sail being supported by the wind. This video was posted on August 24, 2012, years before the Shibumi patents were filed. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FnqQWW_pMEI They also use bungee elastic shock cords to pull the sail tight and anchored it to the post inserted into the ground such that the sail does not fly off. DISCLAIMER: The products shown here were purchased by me with the intent to use them. I did not receive any free items, and I am not being paid or compensated for this review. The video, description, and comments may contain affiliate links. If you click on a link, I may receive a commission. Money earned helps to support my channel and bring you more informative videos about engineering, crafting, and DIY.

WORK OFFSETS (X and Y) USING THE 3D TASTER PROBE - (HAAS Video Link to 0:27) The 3D taster (Tschorn) probe is calibrated to be centered on the spindle axis when the indicator value reads 0 in X or Y. Use the 3D taster (Tschorn) Probe, touch the part with the probe until the indicator is at 0. This is the edge of the part, no offset calculation is necessary Make sure the correct jog axis is selected that is to be zeroed, and press PART ZERO SET Repeat for the other axis. USING A DIAL INDICATOR TO FIND AN EDGE - (HAAS Video Link to 5:22) Use these instructions when setting the G54 X or Y zero to the edge. Zero the dial indicator on one edge of the part. Record that position. Using a flat piece, push it onto the edge surface of the stock. Bring the dial indicator in from the opposite side from before and zero it on the flat part. Record that position. Add the 2 recorded positions and divide by 2 to find the center. That is the edge of the part. Enter that center value into G54 for the axis being measured. Repeat this process for the other axis. USING A DIAL INDICATOR TO FIND THE CENTER - (HAAS Video Link to 5:22) Use these instructions when setting the G54 X or Y zero to the edge. Zero the dial indicator on one edge of the part. Record that position. (An alternate method to keep track of the distances is the OPERATOR position. Goto POSITIONS screen, move to OPERATOR, select the correct axis, and press the ORIGIN button to zero the selected axis) Jog to the opposite edge of the part. Bring the dial indicator in from the opposite side from before and zero it on the part. Record that position. (Or record the operator value if you set that to 0 on the previous edge) Add the 2 recorded positions and divide by 2 to find the center. That is the center of the part in respect to the measured axis. Enter that center value into G54 for the axis being measured. (Or jog to the calculated center of the part and press PART ZERO SET. Repeat this process for the other axis. USING AN EDGE FINDER Use the edge finder to find the edge of the part. Move at 0.001in until the edge finder kicks to the side. Back off (reverse) by 1 click (0.001in) of the jog handle. Offset the edge of the part by the radius of the edge finder (usually 0.1in). Watch this part of the HAAS video at 4:27. One method is to hand jog 0.1in towards the edge. Goto G54 work offset, select the correct axis and press PART ZERO SET Repeat for the other axis. WORK HEIGHT OFFSET (Z) NOTE: We are using the table as the 0 reference for tools. We use a 5in (127mm) tool setter to help set the height of the tool relative to the table. When using the tool setter, 5in (127mm) is entered into the TOOL WEAR column of the tool offsets. This video from HAAS does a good job of explaining how to set the work height offset (Z). For the HAAS TM-1, we're using the machine table as the 0 position. All tool heights are offset from the machine table. The G54 top of workpiece is also offset from the machine table. USING A DIAL INDICATOR OR PROBE - (HAAS Video Link To 4:47) Touch off on the table until indicator reads 0. Press MEMORY button, then press HANDLE JOG button. This zeros out the Distance To Go value before jogging to the top of the part. This keeps track of the table to top of workpiece distance. (An alternate method to keep track of the distances is the OPERATOR position. Goto POSITIONS screen, move to OPERATOR, press Z and the ORIGIN button to 0 the selected axis) Move the indicator to the top of the workpiece and note the Z value of Distance To Go. In the OFFSETS tab, goto G54, Z-AXIS and enter the Z value of Distance To Go measured in step 3. USING A TOOL SETTER - (HAAS Video Link To 5:41) The tool setter we use has a 5" (127mm) height offset. Put tool setter on the table. Use a tool with preset height, make sure that the matching tool # is active on the CNC. Touch off the tool on the tool setter until the dial reads 0. Press MEMORY button, then press HANDLE JOG button. This zeros out the Distance To Go value before jogging to the top of the part. This keeps track of the table to top of workpiece distance. (An alternate method to keep track of the distances is the OPERATOR position. Goto POSITIONS screen, move to OPERATOR, press Z and the ORIGIN button to 0 the selected axis) Move the Tool Setter to the top of the workpiece. Touch off the tool on the tool setter until the dial reads 0. Note the Z value of Distance To Go. In the OFFSETS tab, goto G54, Z-AXIS and enter the Z value of Distance To Go measured in previous step.

STEPS TO EXPORT FROM MOBILE These steps are shown on an Android phone. The steps should be similar for Apple iPhone. - Open the ADOBE RUSH mobile app - Click on the settings (GEAR icon at the top right) - Click on Preferences - Click on Share Logs - Click on Share Project Files And Logs - Select your cloud storage of choice to upload the Project Files and Logs zip file to. In this case, I'm using Google Drive. Note that this does not upload any media. You will need to upload the media to PC separately. - Choose the cloud storage drive location to save the files to. - Now it's time to head over to the Windows PC. STEPS ON THE PC TO IMPORT RUSH FILES INTO PREMIERE PRO - Find the file named "Rush Project logs" that was uploaded using the cloud storage. - The file will not have a file extension. Single-click on it until it is renamable, and add the .zip file extension. - Extract/unzip that file - Open the unzipped folder - Open the "Team Projects Local Hub" Folder - Open the next folder "2021" or whatever it may show there. - Now there may be 1 or 2 folders "LOCAL" and "SYNCHRONIZED". Open one of those folders, and inside will be the RUSH project folders. They will have a long nonsensical name of hex digits. - COPY one or more of these folders. - On the Windows PC, go to the file location C:\Users\USERNAME\AppData\Roaming\Adobe\Common\Team Projects Local Hub\2021\local The AppData folder may be hidden. Enable show hidden folders to see it. - PASTE the folders from the mobile export into this directory. - Make sure that the media files associated with those projects have also been exported and are stored in a separate video project folder. - Now open ADOBE RUSH or ADOBE PREMIERE - On the ADOBE PREMIERE PRO home screen, click "Open Premiere Rush Project" in the lower left. - Select the new manually uploaded RUSH project. - PREMIERE PRO will pop up an error window saying "Missing media for these clips". Click LOCATE and find the folder where the media is stored. This will link the media to the project. Now the project can be saved as an ADOBE PREMIERE PRO project! Common ADOBE, would it be that hard to streamline this feature using our own cloud storage, like Dropbox, which you have already integrated into RUSH? At least please don't get rid of this workaround solution. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Thanks to this post by Nicole Evans and this post on the Adobe Community forum, I was able to piece together this work around.

MAINTENANCE Download the PDF Manual Variable Speed Belt Drive The variable speed belt replacement # is 1922V443 and can be purchased here on Amazon. MODS Table Lift Using a Chain Hoist VFD (Variable Frequency Drive) 110V Single Phase to 3 Phase Motor Driver There wasn't 3-phase power available where I wanted to use the drill press. A single-phase to three-phase VFD can be used to run the drill press motor from either 110V or 220V. The correct input voltage VFD has to be purchased for either 110V or 220V. The motor HP limit is much lower on the 110V, but enough for this drill press motor. Another advantage of the VFD is that it allows full-speed control. Although this works quite well, the stock 3 phase motor was never designed for speed control from a VFD, so it loses torque at slower speeds below 50%, and sometimes the controller will stop. At 100% it never has any issues driving the motor. WHERE TO BUY VFD 110V/120V Single Phase to Three Phase VFD 220V/240V Single Phase to Three Phase VFD

Breaking a tap is incredibly frustrating, especially when the part it's broken in took a lot of time to make or is expensive. The broken taps are often incredibly difficult to remove and if it is successfully removed, wasted a lot of time. It's not only taps, this also applies to broken drill bits, screws, sheared pins (that can't be pressed out). Existing EDM broken tap removal machines are expensive enough that only a large machine shop might invest in one. Although making use of it only a few times would pay back for it. Homemade Small Hole EDM for Under $20 (but does it work? The are using a solenoid which makes it retract automatically) - https://youtu.be/fRPmSgfIJqY?si=vXhnNk29SSmi_EAn Poor Man's EDM - Simplest design that I have seen. Electrode is attached to DIY solenoid. When the electrode discharges, the power energizes the solenoid and retracts it. https://www.shopfloortalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32279 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d9w-P8QAseg&feature=related http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KjBjxWWh82E&feature=related Jon Elson's Machining Page A Mini-EDM System The Home Built EDM Machine https://homebuiltedm.tripod.com/ EDM Power Supplies https://rackrobo.io/products/PCV2 Has outputs for current that can be used to control the motor drive speed. Only 180W Commercially Available Tap/Drill Remover EDM This is a very cheap, simple, low power EDM machine. 180W, manual drive "The diameter of the hole is 1-6mm. If the hole is more than 6mm, you can try to use a hollow brass tube. The depth of the hole is 8mm. If it exceeds 6mm, it is relatively slow. Because the impurities punched by the hole depth are not easy to discharge, it will cause discontinuous sparks. , thus slow." The linear slide can be motorized using a stepper motor. Can the current be sensed to automatically control the motor speed or retract? A water pump is needed. Only 180W Least expensive EDM broken tap remover ~$500 Parameter: Portable Broken Tap Remover Model: EDM-400C EDM-500C Voltage: AC220V 50/60HZ Input Power: 400W Output Voltage 80V Electrode Range 0.8-10MM Automatic travel 70MM Processing speed ≈1MM/MIN Features: 1, With Φ1-Φ5 brass electrode 2, It is suitable for taking M2-M12 broken taps, drills, screws, etc. with a breaking depth within 40mm.